Back to Basics: Lashes

This post is not about mascaras -- I've written reviews on those before and no doubt more will be forthcoming, such is my fondness for sampling new formulas and such my apparently freakish ability (established through many a makeupalley makeup board poll) to run through a tube in about six weeks on average...

Instead, I'll be talking about the para-lash-tools of curler, mascara guard, and lash comb, pictured here with my current pair of go-to mascaras: Fasio Full Dynamic Volume for fluttery and L'Oréal Telescopic False Lash Waterproof [known as Telescopic Shocking Extensions WP in the US] for bolder lashes -- you can compare&contrast the effects of these two along with a colourful RMK in this post.


Mine's from Chanel. *cringe* Have I mentioned how irritating I find that? With frequently replaced basics (and I count lash curlers an absolute bottom-line desert-island basic beauty item, trumping even undereye concealer, tweezers, or lipstick, and only giving way to sunscreen, moisturiser, or oxygen...) I take an inability to find a cheap, easily accessible drugstore option as a personal failure, and to add insult the injury this Chanel curler was limited edition outside of the US, so I need to bother friends for repurchases, and live in fear of the day they discontinue it altogether.
Unfortunately, the Chanel is far and away the best fit for my lashline and that's the most important factor to consider when purchasing a curler. I say 'lashline' specifically, as I've noticed in makeupalley discussions that people tend to ask for curler recommendations to fit, for example, "big, almond-shaped eyes," but it's not the overall eye shape or size but the length and curve of the upper lashline only which the curler has to fit. For example, though my eyes aren't particularly round, my upper lashline is actually very curved, especially owing to the downward slope of my epicanthic fold at the inner corner. The Shu curler, which is usually recommended for neither-round-nor-very-flat eyes like mine, tends to pinch at the corners of my eyes, while Shiseido's, flatter still, is unusably uncomfortable and feels obviously like I'm trying to make a curve conform to a rigid straight line.

The length of the lashline is also a factor, and it's not always straightforwardly related to eye size; those with hooded eyes or a crease which extends 'beyond' the lower lashline may need a longer, bigger curler than they'd think considering eye size alone, while I've also come across round eyes which owe much of their roundness to a foreshortened, very curved upper lashline, thus requiring a smaller curler. My upper lashline is pretty proportionate to my smallish eyesize (i.e. shortish), so the Chanel is a good fit while larger curlers with a similar curvature (e.g. those by Kevyn Aucoin or MAC) tend to pinch the corners at my lower lashline, and even without that, sometimes catch and kink my outer lower lashes as I curl.
A perfectly fitting curler should give evenly fanned-up-and-out lashes with minimal effort; one which is close enough not to necessarily pinch might still leave some lashes uncurled, some angled more outwardly/upwardly/basically awkwardly than others, or clump some lashes together, depending on where the mismatch lies. Up to you whether that really matters, of course, but as established I'm all kinds of uncompromising cray about this. :D

Good news is, once you've found a good fit, there's not much else to worry about. I can't discern vast differences in construction quality or effectiveness between curlers at various price points, let alone expensive heated ones -- they all gradually lose their springiness with use and after about a year the difference is sufficiently noticeable (er... I'm picky enough) to require replacing. Acquiring the Chanel curler is so annoying I usually eke out another 6 months' use; the only curlers which are solid enough to last two full years for me are the gold Shu Uemura ones. Maintaining a curl is entirely up to mascara formula (general rule of thumb for stubbornly uncurly lashes: go waterproof), rather than the curlers themselves.
Far more important than the curler itself is the pad. For a smooth even curl rather than harsh kinks, look for pads with a curved top edge that extends beyond the base (which fits into the slot in your curler) -- the side cross section should look like a cartoon mushroom. I like ones that are firm but not rock-hard -- a little cushioniness is good; too much squishiness, so that I have to really squeeze the curlers to get any resistance, means it's time to change pads (this happens about once every three months). Don't worry if the curler that fits your lashline comes with horrid hard rectangular pads -- you will be able to find rounded replacements to fit -- pads only come in about 3 lengths and as they're soft and malleable, curvature isn't a factor. Muji ones (two a pack, for about £1) replace my Chanel ones perfectly well.
That's about it :) I don't have any special tricks to do with the actual curling -- as always, I prefer to put time into finding the perfect tool that obviates the need for extra work on my part. After doing eyemakeup, I brush through my lashes with a cheap Sally's spoolie to remove any shadow/liner residue, then it's a regular textbook triple-press curl moving ouwards from right at the base of the lashes to the tips, angling the curler upwards incrementally with each press.

L'Oréal Telescopic False Lash WP mascara