See Part I for the reviews proper, swatches and comparisons of my Peach and Lily Clio haul.
Apologies for the delay in getting this post together -- my laptop and I were caught in a tropical thunderstorm shortly after arriving in Hong Kong and I lost all my to-be-uploaded pictures. :'( So there will be some seriously scrappy pics and floating eyes without face context, but on the plus side, your scrolling fingers will be at less risk of developing tendonitis.
Anyway, these looks using my Clio goodies are all more or less slavish imitations of Jung Saem Mool's, Korean makeup artist to da starz, and doyenne of modern, neutral looks with many a clever twist of shaping or textural combination, to enhance a wider variety of eyeshapes than the textbook 'average' eye commonly found in English-language makeup teaching (or the one, usually exceptionally flat and monolidded type, which is thrown in to represent ALL 'Asian' eyes). Okay, soapboxing aside, she employs lots of interesting liner shapes, which makes for the perfect pairing with Clio, known especially for its liners. Though I miss the wackier Engrish of her older, no-longer online vids.
![]()
![]()
I used all creams to create this look, as the Clio textures are so blendable they layer and blend much like great powder shadows anyway: both Friday Glow liquids to create the 'tulip', WP brush liner on the upper lashline, smoked out with Gelspresso Golden Black pencil, and the versatile Eye Guard liner on the waterline. Volumising
![]()
![]()
Apologies for the delay in getting this post together -- my laptop and I were caught in a tropical thunderstorm shortly after arriving in Hong Kong and I lost all my to-be-uploaded pictures. :'( So there will be some seriously scrappy pics and floating eyes without face context, but on the plus side, your scrolling fingers will be at less risk of developing tendonitis.
Anyway, these looks using my Clio goodies are all more or less slavish imitations of Jung Saem Mool's, Korean makeup artist to da starz, and doyenne of modern, neutral looks with many a clever twist of shaping or textural combination, to enhance a wider variety of eyeshapes than the textbook 'average' eye commonly found in English-language makeup teaching (or the one, usually exceptionally flat and monolidded type, which is thrown in to represent ALL 'Asian' eyes). Okay, soapboxing aside, she employs lots of interesting liner shapes, which makes for the perfect pairing with Clio, known especially for its liners. Though I miss the wackier Engrish of her older, no-longer online vids.
1. Widened Eyes
This is a great, targeted video which offers a very simple way to widen close-set eyes, which I also have, though otherwise my eyeshape differs quite a bit from her model's :)
My skin prefers grey to brown as a neutral, so instead of the brown powder shadow she used to shade the model's liner, I smoked out the edges of my Gelspresso Golden Black pencil line for a coal-with-warm-shimmer instead. My lower lashline neutral sparkle is Friday Glow Liquid Eyeshadow Sheer Beige, with Twistup Long Lash for a nothingy mascara,
Lip and cheek inspiration comes from this video's cutesy cool pinks, and centered, rounded blush placement (note that it also features this widened eyeshape, an ongoing trend in K-makeup). I used Etude House Fresh Cherry Lip Tint 2 Pink topped with RBR Kiss Elixir lip balm, and Miss Tangerine Choux Cream Blusher #3 Miss Berry.
2. Extended Eye
Wait, didn't you just do this? I hear you ask. :D Such is the subtlety of JSM's variations. This look also extends the liner past the eye, but angled slightly up, and instead of joining with the lower lashline at the outer edge to place emphasis on that corner, it's mirrored by a lighter lower lashline wing. This all works to lengthen the eye again, but also to widen it vertically (open it up), though with all this stuff going on at the outer corner, and both lines tapering as we move inwards, this look also makes the eyes seem wider-set.
I did a slightly more kicky-neutral version, with Gelspresso Golden Khaki pencil on the upper lashline and Friday Glow Liquid Eyeshadow Deepen Brown on the lower. Er... and then I added a wash of Friday Glow in Sheer Beige all over the lid, because SPARKLY. The way my eye curves means it looks sparkliest over the centre of my eye, so it adds to the vertically 'opened out' look. Ahem, totally intentional and planned and stuff.
 |
| natural light |
 |
| bathroom light to capture SPARKLE |
3. Gradation Technique
This combines a vertical gradation (i.e. a smokey eye, fading out from a darkened lashline) with horizontal shading at both inner and outer thirds (sometimes called a 'tulip' placement) to open the eye up both upwards and outwards, while adding dimension and depth. This is the kind of thing to throw at people who claim that black rimming the waterline always closes up the eye, or makes 'Asian' eyes looks smaller; there's a reason smokey eyes (not necessarily using the classic 'smokey eye' colours) are actually the ones you see most often in Asian magazines and ads. Because it's so balanced, this look would suit most, though if your eyes are very close-set (or you want to make them look as wide-set as possible) you might want to skip the darkened inner corner; very prominent or bulging eyes may want to skip the central highlight.
I used all creams to create this look, as the Clio textures are so blendable they layer and blend much like great powder shadows anyway: both Friday Glow liquids to create the 'tulip', WP brush liner on the upper lashline, smoked out with Gelspresso Golden Black pencil, and the versatile Eye Guard liner on the waterline. Volumising
Popsicle lip with Etude House Cherry Lip Tint 1 Red, inspiration courtesy of this vid (which features a similar combination of vertical and horizontal gradations, although with the horizontal one going more traditionally from lightest at the inner corner to darkest at the outer):
I lost a few other JSM-inspired looks in the great hard-drive flood, but there will be more in future posts I'm sure! (And in past ones -- she's a big influence on me, as you can probably tell.) Do you have a particular favourite video, look, or technique of hers?
In the meantime, here are two winged liner looks which aren't particularly JSM-ish, but which show how well the Clio Twisturn liquids layer and build:
 |
| Club Black sandwiching Night Purple in natural light |
 |
| and vice versa, in bathroom lighting -- bottom of the barrel pics, okay? |