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The Beauty Spotlight Team Plays Twenty Questions!

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Exciting stuff, it's the beginning of a new fortnightly series for the Beauty Spotlight Team -- Twenty Questions!

First we'll be popping over to Pammy's for various answers to questions both bloggy and personal.

My turn will come in December, so Dear Readers, if you have any not terribly pressing questions to submit, please don't be shy and leave a comment or email me :)

Suqqu EX-19 Touryokuzora Look 3

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This one is due the kindness of readers, specifically AngerinDoll, who replied to my earlier post/plea with fantastic ideas for combinations with the copper-peach and bronze-taupe in this quad -- the skintone white I can just about figure out on my own, while it's a constant effort not to smear the glittery green ALL OVER MY TORSO as it is....

So thanks to AngerinDoll, here's a look using only the 'tricky' shades in this quad, offset with a cool lilac infused with warmer opalescent shimmer -- Shiseido Ghost single, swatched here.
Peach all over lid, blended up and out in a soft but slightly pointed shape to balance the fold of my inner corner. Bronze-taupe smudged along both lashlines, extended slightly in an 'open' shape at the outer corner. Shiseido Ghost curved around the inner corner and dabbed in the 'open' gap at the very outer corner of the eye.
Mascara being tested is Kiss Me Heroine Make's latest formula: Volume&Curl S in black.

Spoiler: I like this mascara plenty and a year ago a formula with its level of performance would've become a new staple, but having been spoiled by my current options of Fasio Full Dynamic Volume for fluttery or L'Oreal Telescopic Falsh Lash Waterproof for va-va-voom, I felt a little 'naked' with this on, so added a second coat, then MOAR of the copper-peach over my undereye area (...I don't recall why there, specifically, but let's not examine too closely) before taking full-face shots:
Lips: Guerlain Rouge G Genna. Base: (my current go-to combo for helping these warm tones meld with my skintone, of) Shu Underbase Cream Pink, Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation 001, Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Tranquility highlighter and Burberry Sheer Concealer 01 under eyes. Brows: Shu Uemura Hard 9 brow pencil Seal Brown.


I think this look would've been stronger if I'd had with me a less greyed shade than Ghost, one with more contrast against my skintone (I usually prefer to bump Ghost up over a dark base), but I'm kind of tickled that the results actually look as if I'd been trying to 'fake up' Shiseido's BR214 Into the Woods trio :D
Which I had womanfully resisted earlier this year despite looks from beautiful temptresses Joey, Sophia, and Lauren.

So Touryokuzora is the Suqqu quad that just keeps giving! There will be a few more looks to come (sorry for those who are already and justifiably bored to death) but if you have ideas/requests for combos I'd love to hear them :)

Shu Uemura Glitter Topcoats

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Another entry in my 'enduring loves' series, I purchased most of these Shu Uemura shadows upon release back in June 2012 (which also features a pristine photo), and they've become absolute beauty necessities since, as my laziest one-minute eye makeup-that-involves-shadow-at-all consists of a messy cream/creamy powder wash topped with a partial pigment highlight (usually at the centre of the mobile lid and inner corner, but sometimes slightly offset outwards, and at other times to overlap / surround the main shade -- for three looks with movable highlights, see this post.)

The collection:
Shu Uemura glitters Glitter White Rainbow, IR 115, G646, G135, G251, G745, Prestigious Bordeaux, Smoky Velvet
As you see, my beloved ShuxKarl Lagerfeld palettes of Christmas 2012 also included glitter pans in this formula. The white-gold in the EU version of Smoky Velvet (here) is very similar to and thus supplanted the G Gold 311 from my original haul, while the US version of Smoky Velvet included a mini G White Rainbow -- in that case, I kept the single and ditched the palette. Similar glitter pans have also been included in Shu's Spring 2012 Celestial Garden trios, and Autumn 2012 Chocolat Donna palettes, so if you've tried any of those, you'll be familiar with the texture and performance of these singles.

Which are pigmented-but-translucent, delicate, dryish* glitter topcoats, designed to be pressed unto the skin (or over cream/powder shadows) with a fingertip or dense synthetic brush. Worn as topcoat, adherence is excellent -- with my dry skin I often experience powder fallout, but these wear beautifully on me with nary a speck of glitter dandruff throughout the day/night. If I want to pack these on for a more intensely blingy effect, I'll use a cream base underneath, and because of the translucent base in which these glitters are suspended, you can create different effects by using bases of various colours and finishes.

*the exceptions in my collection are G White Rainbow and IR Pink 115, which are both 'silk smooth' shadows -- with a far greater degree of silicone slip, they feel almost creamy to the touch and lift from the pan in soft 'clumps'. ....I swear they're nicer than that description would imply. Anyway, because of the especially clear siliconey base, those two also shift most when swatched over another shade:

Swatches made over bare skin and a sheer wash of KATE black gel liner
(patted on with a fingertip; I tried to include several degrees of fuzz in the shots) 

G White Rainbow mixes a holographic rainbow of sparkles (mostly from the yellow-blue portion of the spectrum) with finer white and silver shimmer, all in a clear base.
Shu Uemura G White Rainbow swatches

IR Pink 115 floats several tones of pink, vermillion, violet and gold, again in a clear base -- its 'banked coals' effect really come out when layered over a dark shade. True to its 'IR' (iridescent) designation, its gleam shifts from cool pink to warm rosy-gold depending on angle.
Shu Uemura IR Pink 115 swatches

The other shades are drier, more conventional powders, albeit as loosely packed as the first two glitters, and containing several sizes and shapes as well as various colours of sparkle:

G Pink 135 is another holographic shade, like G White Rainbow, but incorporating the indigo/violet end of the rainbow, and sitting on a more pigmented, uniform and finely milled icy pink base.
Shu Uemura G Pink 135 swatches

G Orange 251 is my favourite and probably one of my top ten shadows. At some angles it's a molten gleaming coral-gold, and at others it's a diffuse fiery sparkle. The most pigmented of all these glitters, I prefer to wear it over bare skin or a sheer powder -- a cream underneath seems to flatten all the complexities of its base, though a cream base does reveal the variety of sizes and shapes of the white-gold to amber sparkle within this shadow.
Shu Uemura G Orange 251 swatches

G Blue 646 is a turquoise base packed with cooler, truer blue glitters from cornflower to icy blue-white. Equally pretty alone or over a darker base, but in two very different ways -- like the sky at noon and on a spectacularly starry fairytale night.
Shu Uemura G Blue 646 swatches

G Purple 745 is a proper fairy-ish lilac glitter, which shares the light-base-darker-sparkle pattern of G Pink 135 and G Blue 646 [I think G Orange 251's inversion of this may be why I don't like it as much over a dark base]. It's the most finely milled and therefore least complex of all of these, but its delicacy makes it versatile -- and, I mean, LILAC SPARKLY THING. How critical do you expect me to be, exactly? *drooling(
Shu Uemura G Purple 745 swatches


Some Looks
1. A representative lazy two-minute eye i.e. how I usually wear these glitters / make them somewhat work safe.
Base consists of two RBR cream shadows: Atlas Swallowtail (pewter-flashing sand) over the lid, outer corner darkened with a dab of Batiste Grayling (warm smoke). IR Pink 115 dabbed over the centre of both lid and lower lashline.
No liner -- both because lazy, but also because it keeps the look more undone. But purple mascara (YSL Singulier Nuit Blanche 4 Vibrant Violet) because I CAN.
Atlas Swallowtail's cooler flash make it look like I have 2 different shadows on my inner corners XD

Daniel Sandler Luxury Matte lipstick Valentina on lips and cheeks.


2. Tinkerbell on acid -- or, I wonder how many of these I can fit onto my lids, anyway?
...Apparently, six. G Purple 745 pulled up from inner corner, G Pink 135 over centre of lid, G Orange 251 patted into outer v, G Blue 646 as an outward-of-centre lid highlight. On the lower lashline, from inner to outer corner, G Purple 745, the white gold from Smoky Velvet, and the warm copper from Prestigious Bordeaux.
Again, no liner. Because I'm aaaaaall about the restraint and tastefulness. Fluttery Fasio Full Dynamic Volume lashes.

Just add Addiction Damask Rose cheekstick, Fresh Sugar Rosé balm and a vacant expression....


3. Can glitter be badass? A modest inquiry.
Base is the warm black glitter from Smoky Velvet, washed messily up from lashline following the natural shape of my lids and smudged into lower lashline. G White Rainbow arced up from inner corner through socket, IR Pink 115 in its banked-coals mode in the centre of the lower lashline.
Bolder lashes with L'Oreal Telescopic False Lash WP.
artificial light was the one way I could capture the holo
A neat combo of both lip products: Fresh Sugar Rosé all over, with a miniscule quantity of Daniel Sandler Valentina patted onto the centre of the lips. Addiction Amazing CS on cheeks.
^I often do a version of this look for holiday events -- it's a not-too-done nod to the season (starry black, iridescent-snow-white, banked coals, you feel me?) when I want a break from the gold-eye-red-lip usual.

Anyone else a glitter fiend regardless of season? Often dubbed 'only for teens,' I find them infinitely more flattering on my crepey textured dry lids than most mattes, let alone frosts or metallics. What are some of your favourite shades/formulas, and how do you like to wear them? Give me sparkly ideas!

The Beauty Spotlight Team: Weekend Links

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Even though Givenchy has a smaller holiday collection compared with other luxury brands, Mostly Sunny is head over heels with the three pieces she has! Come take a look at Ondulations d'Or, Rose Précieux Le Rouge, and Bronze Précieux Le Vernis on her! You might just fall in love as well!

Got a boo boo on your face? Use this gel that polish insomniac discovered nightly and in a few days you will wake up without a scar!

Lola's Secret Beauty Blog loves Susan Thompson Cosmetics Pout Poppers because they are the most amazing and effective lip plumping lip glosses on the market, and Peace is simply the most gorgeous sparkling golden nude!

There's a thrill to learning about a new line of cosmetics as long as it's as good as Frankie Rose Cosmetics. See what's getting Lisa of Beauty Info Zone so excited.

Prime Beauty says brighten those tip for the holidays with ButterLONDON's Glam Rock Nail Lacquer Set--it's great for gift giving OR getting!

If you can resist the urge to glitter the lily….er, lid, you're a more tasteful woman than Kate. drivel about frivol features some of her fairydust favourites from Shu Uemura; it's, like, totally scintillating.

Do your unruly brows need taming? Pammy Blogs Beauty scopes out Benefit's new Gimme Brow...and is impressed!

Lisamarie from Beauty Crazed tries out the latest in greatest in hair colour with the L'Oreal Preference Mousse Absolute - find out what makes it different from everything else out there and if you think the new colour is an improvement!

A Tom Ford product that is worth the splurge? Visionary Beauty shares her thoughts on the Orchid Haze eye quad.

15 Minute Beauty has compiled a list of the best tutorials with the Urban Decay Naked Basics Palette. Do you own this must have yet?

The Pink Sith has a list of her Top 10 Concealers. Is your Holy Grail concealer on her list?

eyeliner on a cat waxes nostalgic about Besame Cosmetics past, while very much enjoying the brand's present offerings.

Perilously Pale gives us a step by step tutorial to creating a gorgeous bronze and copper smoky eye with the Dior Golden Flower Quint for Holiday 2013.

Sunday Sundries Nov 2013

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It's been a bit of a frantic deadline pile-uppy week in my unbeautiful life, followed by an extremely lazy self-indulgent weekend, hence the lack of drivel. I'll be ready to embark next week on a series of posts going back to basics (on skincare, base, brows and lashes) and showcasing some simple looks with the early Christmas presents and packages which have been coming my way :)

But for now, here's some random picspam of said self-indulgence :D

My prescription for stress and homesickness: fat yarns and books of varying girth, both in care packages from the UK:
Books top to bottom: three school-set volumes of Antonia Forest's shamefully out-of-print Marlow chronicles (I'm now only missing the last, which was always my least favourite anyway); more lightness in Right Ho, Jeeves, Seven Men and Two Others, The Brontës Went to Woolworths and The Topsy Omnibus (quirky farces from the 1900s-30s = my brain's happy place); Judith Flanders'The Victorian City, faultlessly researched and engagingly chatty history of London -- nonfictional escapism at its best; Hyperbole and A Half; and a new edition of an old comfort read...about maths. Hey, I bet engineers snuggle up with some Žižek essays on their days off....
Yarns left to right: Rowan Big Wool (chunky cuddly merino) in Smoky (beanie-to-be) and Concrete (coatigan-in-progress) and Rowan Kid Classic in Nightly (vintagey turban, methinks).

I should have the coatigan ready to show off by next weekend -- such is the fun of fat yarn -- but my last sweater took somewhat longer, and I worked on it across three continents. That said, since I've finished sewing in all five billionty thread ends, I haven't brought myself to take this off.... *sniffs self dubiously*
pics taken pre-button-sewing, oops :P Skirt is my T by Alexander Wang buy from last year
Pattern: Kim Hargreaves, Meredith  |  My detailed project notes/mods here.


Er... let me waft some more fragrant things your way. Rose oolong tea and sharp-sweet pineapple short pastries, from Taiwan:

More random food pics because I haz no instagram:
Korean noms, favouring the spicy and fried varieties...
Sichuan noms -- again with the fried+spicy.... Sichuanese has got to be my favourite cuisine evar.
lighter and snackier Taiwanese fare -- perfect for refuelling before/after a wander 'round a night market (for more noms)
Sweeeeeeets. Or divination. Hey if it works with coffee grounds why not with ice-cold beans?

Suspect you've gained some chub just looking at those pics? No fear, Face Pérm's here:
Apart from the ENTIRE CONCEPT ZOMG, I love that for the 'before' side they basically just took two seconds to smear mud&ashes onto that cute model's cheek. And that accent acute inspires trust, no? 

Er... not that I'm safe from nefarious European influences either. This week, Enkida challenged the denizens of makeupalley to take off this look from Glamour Germany, June 2013:


Witness the dangers of presenting a sleep-deprived driveller with A New Project:
cheek: Diego Dalla Palma 60 Glow Baby Pink, Illamasqua Crush, Face Stockholm New York
lip: Media Lip Liner WN-1, By Terry Hot Cranberry
brows: Kiko white kajal pencil, Shu Uemura M White 907, Chanel Convoitise Id'O, Suqqu Ginbudou gold
eyes: THREE 08 Spirit Light white gold; peach, pink and purple from KATE Deep Trap Eyes PK-1, CLIO Friday Glow 2 Sheer Beige, Kiko Shiny Fuchsia, Clinique Intense Amethyst quickliner, L'Oreal Telescopic False Lash WP.


bathroom light.... it being 1 a.m. by this point *hides*

....Yeah. No-one still wondering how I hit pan on stuff, I assume? ;)

Back to basics series next week, promise! :)

Back to Basics: Skincare Update 2013

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Have you heard that old chestnut about faces changing a great deal between the ages of 28 and 30? It's something people who haven't seen me for about a year have been trotting out with fairly hilarious predictability (ah, Asian bluntness about physical appearance, so 'charming'....) and to be fair, I've noticed it too, in myself. With painfully dry and sensitive skin, I'm very conservative with skincare, and the shapes of my main routine and supplementary one remain largely consistent; I try new things* only when companies discontinue/reformulate my favourites, or when I can visibly see their decreasing efficacy due to changes in my skin condition/needs.

Since my last major update a year ago, my skin has become even drier, and noticeably thinner / less tight, so my aim has been to incorporate stronger, more regular anti-ageing products while keeping my skin as calm and comfortable as possible. That's the context for the entrance of these:
Mentholatum Sunplay Super Block SPF50+ PA++++ (ingredients)
Avène Antirougeurs Fort (ingredients)
Avène Eluage Gel (ingredients)
The Organic Pharmacy Skin Rescue Oil (ingredients)
REN Vita Mineral Emollient Rescue Cream (ingredients)

*Please note: I also try new products only after poring over the ingredients list and looking up anything unfamiliar -- so while I hope this post will be helpful to anyone with a similar skintype / similar taste in skincare, there is no substitute for Ze Research, especially as allergies to some common ingredients prevent me from testing some popular options out there.


MOISTURISERS
Both the REN and The Organic Pharmacy products are marketed as emergency rescue/bandaidy formulas for healing/soothing damanged skin, but such is the state of my perenially-on-the-edge-of-cracking-and-peeling skin, thanks to ye current ravages of aggressive aircon, frequent air travel and epic insomnia, that they function as pretty much nightly moisturisers (for daytime, I prefer the immediately visible tightening effects and cosmetic elegance of my Decléor duo of day cream and iris oil reviewed previously).

REN Vita Mineral Emollient Rescue Cream has proven far more effective than Avène Cicalfate (my longstanding barrier repair balm) at healing up or at least significantly mitigating flakes and rough dry patches overnight, though Cicalfate still wins out for irritation/rashes. I experience the former far more often than the latter (no likey to experiment with skincare, remember?), and almost constantly in winter, so REN's mix of heavy-hitting emollients with some bonus anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients strikes the perfect great balance for my skin. Its main 'healing' ingredient is magnesium sulphate (the same reason Epsom salts are good for eczema), which is also present in Cicalfate, but without Cicalfate's zinc oxide content (very drying on my skin with sustained use), which means that I can use the REN cream daily if needed, reserving Cicalfate for specific emergencies.

...So I need both. In my usual manner of self-justification, here are some swatches :P 
Next to the barrier repair balms, Decléor Expérience De L'Âge Rich Cream (despite its champion moisturing properties) looks more silkily light than thickly rich. Of the two balms, Cicalfate emerges from the tube as a much thicker cream but it's much lighter and easier to spread across the skin -- it's REN Emollient Rescue which feels more like a gluey bandaid proper (no, srsly, it practically boings across the skin -- v fun -- see how 'self-contained' its swatch seems?), and requires strategic warming between hands / pressing on /massaging in, though I've come to enjoy the ritual and its clean rosewater scent.

Its boingy bandaid-y character means that the REN, like the Cicalfate, actively forms a slightly shiny (though not sticky/heavy) water-repelling barrier across the skin -- after working excess product into the backs of my hands, I can feel/see the REN balm repelling water and keeping my hands soft many handwashes later. Used this way, as a protective/preventative (rather than repair) balm on my most eczema- and flake-prone areas during the day (hands, sides of nose, around mouth) has actually so far kept off all the flare-ups I usually expect in winter. :D

The Organic Pharmacy Skin Rescue Oil is entirely to be blamed on Lola's Secret Beauty Blog, whose fabulous reviews of skin oils rekindled my interest in this brand (a local one I'd liked and used many years ago but had abandoned for FrancoJapanesier skincare pastures). Of its oil serum offerings, I chose the Goldilocks option of Skin Rescue (Antioxidant seemed potentially irritating/overkill for my skin; Rosehip too basic) and am very happy to report no irritation and very effective soothing/healing/moisturising of patchy or flaky areas in a refined, light oil texture that sinks in immediately and works for day as well as night. For Skin Rescue Oil's runniness compared with my current oil serum, Decléor Aromessence Iris:
Personally repurchased since finishing the press samples sent to me, the Decléor oil is still my preferred option for its visible tightening/firming benefits, but when my skin is feeling painfully tight and looking flaky and rough, The Organic Pharmacy oil is a gentler blend (on the nose as well as on the skin) and a few drops mixed into the REN balm to loosen it makes the most effective combination I've ever tried for waking up to reliably softer, smoother and calmer skin.



TREATMENTS
Now I do know that branding aint worth a crap, and just because one's had good luck with a line's products in the past doesn't guarantee success or even really decrease the likelikhood of face-falling-off-in-chunks horror.... that said, Avène is still my most-trusted range, and the one I look to first when aiming to incorporate some stronger active treatmenty things into my basic 'oil 'er up' routine.
Their Diroséal (now discontinued) was the product that made the most difference in subduing my rosacea years back and strengthening my skin barrier, but I still like to keep some redness-mitigating thing in reserve for plain red'n'bumpy irritated skin days, if not rosacea flares proper. Unfortanately, Antirougeurs Fort, their purported replacement for Diroséal, is almost offensively useless. Without the dose of retinaldehyde which made Diroséal effective, this is in effect a basic moisturiser that's tinted slightly yellow, which is more expensive and less efficient at even that job than most of the brand's other moisturisers (I like Trixéra+, marketed for body, best) -- hence my finishing an entire tube simply in establishing its meh-ness: I really need to trowel this stuff on to achieve even basic hydration.
For all its comparative faults (unnecessary fragrance, really unnecessary violent orange tint) Eluage gel, which contains the same 0.05% retinaldehyde concentration as Diroséal, but in the most emollient formula of all Avène's retinaldehyde products (including 1% hyaluronic acid for hydration), is a winner for me. If your skin is just moderately dry, you may prefer the Eluage cream (works out cheaper) and normal/oilier skins might try the Ysthéal emulsion as an alternative to this. My skin can't handle most potent / buzzy actives, even in their overpriced, over-buffered watered-down designer cream incarnations :P So I'm very glad that retinaldehyde (one of the most well-documented effective anti-ageing ingredients) works for me, knocking back emerging lines and refining any crepey skin texture (especially around my nasolabial folds and undereye area). I use Eluage gel every third night, applied all over a just-cleansed face, and give it half an hour or so to work. Then I'll add eye cream and any overnight moisturisers/sealants like my current REN/The Organic Pharmacy mix.




SUNSCREEN
Sunplay Super Block SPF50+ PA++++ is actually a re-discovered/repurposed product; for years I've been switching between this and Menthurm Sun Bears Super Strong SPF50+ as my body sunscreen (depending on which worked out cheapest thanks to drugstore offers :P) -- both alcohol- and fragrance-free Japanese milk sunscreens with a combination of physical and chemical filters. The current PA++++ iteration of Super Block was launched earlier this year and thankfully retained its elegant silky finish (unlike most PA++++ sunscreens I've sampled, which share the gluey/shiny sunscreeny feel of the goop slathered onto me as a child), and works beautifully to replace the discontinued BurnOut Ocean Tested as my physical sunscreen layer.
As my very dry skin can't cope with such a high dose of zinc oxide (it gets itchy and flaky by about midday), I need to layer the Sunplay over a thin coat of Ducray Melascreen Emulsion (all-chemical) which functions as a buffer; if you don't have issues with ZnO it will stands alone as an excellent facial sunscreen -- its PPD of 16+ matching Ducray's. Personally, the hunt goes on -- I prefer emulsion/cream formulas to runny milks, and would love a zinc-free PA++++ formula I could use neat -- but for now, this one is the best of the new breed.




Postscript: Innisfree Soybean Firming Eye Cream 
In other skincare news, I haz new eye cream! Long-time readers will know that this is A Bit Of An Issue. My undereyes are even more apocalyptically dry than my everywhere-else, but the few creams rich enough to keep fine lines (and sometimes actual cracked and bleeding skin D:) at bay tend to puff up my eye bags, irritate my already allergy-ridden eyeballs, or require trowelling on to the extent that my life descends into an endless cycle of "apply half tub of eye cream,""clean trowel,""repurchase eye cream". So it's kind of a miracle when (around once per hundred items) I find an eye cream that can substitute for my eye-wateringly expensive staple, Sisley Sisleya Global Eye and Lip Contour, even if only for part of the year. Since October I've had to switch from the Innisfree Soybean Firming Eye Cream back to Sisleya for the extra moisture needed in winter, but I'd been using it very happily all summer/early autumn as a subtly firming, lightweight-yet-very-moisturising, dark-circle-ameliorating wonder potion! Which sinks in just as quickly and sits just as prettily under makeup as Sisleya, to boot.

While this Soybean eye cream isn't exactly bargain-basement stuff at HK$270 for 30ml (Innisfree is a midrange line from Korean beauty conglom AmorePacific), compared to Sisleya it's practically free :P And four months' daily+nightly use made only a moderate dip in the jar, while I run through a whole 15ml pot of Sisleya in about 5 months. Texturally the two are quite similar -- light yet very effective creams, effortlessly spreadable and setting to a satin finish, though Sisleya is slightly thicker. The Innisfree cream has a stronger (medicinal-botanical) scent, which I would rather be without, though it doesn't linger and I've never found the formula irritating either on eyes or lips.

Innisfree Soybean Firming Eye Cream Ingredients

ThanksNguyenving

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So... work scuppering best laid blog plans blahblahblah as per blah. Instead of more promised Back to Basics posts (let's move them to next week? >.<), I have for you some highly unnecessary spam of my faaace, since a great many of you are nationally obligated to be thankful for it anyway, or are too full to run away from the onslaught of 1am bathroom pics :D

I got to pick this week's makeupalley makeupboard Friday challenge pic, and plumped for this stunning underwater shot by makeup artist Lan Nguyen:
This comes from her book, co-authored with Jana Waru Ririnui, called Makeup Is Art, and I highly recommend tracking down a copy if you're a fan of editorial looks.

A more moderate selection of products than last time:
Base: HEAVY application of Graftobian HD Glamour Creme in Porcelain
Eyes: built around Rouge Bunny Rouge Resplendent Quetzal, the jonquil from THREE duo 05 Love Evolution, and an emeraldish colour frankened from Make Up Store Eyepencil Green Card layered with RBR Whispering Ibis. Addiction Silent Scream and RBR Abyssinian Catbird as textural and tonal tweakers, respectively. Kiko white kajal for stark inner corner highlight, Clio black liquid liner, L'Oréal TFL WP mascara, Dollywink partial lashes (a gift from my dear devil Mira).
Brows: (unpictured, because rolled off somewhere....) left bare except for a bit of Addiction Yellow Submarine eye gloss glooped on. No brushing-through because last week's gold brows involved a great massacre of the spoolies.
Lip: Dolce&Gabbana Attractive Monica lipstick with a dab of Addiction Rich Girl gloss in the centre of my lower lip... which I promptly smeared all over with a forgetful lipsmush.
(Nails: OPI Malaga Wine)


Onto the spam!
1. Squinty, posey pic, with bonus shaky camera to mimic the underwater blur *cough*


2. Squint'n'pose, without the fuzz

3. No squint, but fishface... or duckpout. 'Tis a Rorschach lip.

4. Closed eye shot -- unintentional fuzz this time but hey, it shows the textural variation best.

Eyes close up
still not enough textural variation though!


5. I offered bonus points to any challengees who posted a picture of the look under water, as in the original, so of course I had to give it a go:
Actually the eyeshadow is mostly impressively intact! But how gross does semi-melted trowelled-on Graftobian look?!



Afterthoughts
Yes, I suck at falsies. To be fair, even big-shot international-director-type makeup artists have issues with my wayward hirsute mess of a lashline.
Ironically, I  now 'need' a cool, deep red lip like the one in the original pic. And a proper saturated jewelled emerald shadow *_* Suggestions?

If you would like to play around with this look (it doesn't have to be this literal), do leave me a comment and a link; I'd love to see! The lovely Belly already did! And if you don't already shamble in her wake, why not?

The Beauty Spotlight Team: Getting to Know... Perilously Pale

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This week, it's Christa's turn!

I've 'known' Christa for years, long before either of us had a blog -- she was a fellow pale makeupalley regular and passionate beauty geek, who really knew her stuff across a dizzying array of brands. Get to know her a bit better, over at Perilously Pale.

Back to Basics: Brows

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Much like concealers, brow products are a pretty uninspiring category of makeup, to me at least -- the corrective, compensatory aspects of makeup have never particularly appealed, and endlessly repeated magazinespeak about brows being TEH MOST IMPORTANT face-framing argle blarghle served only to alienate me further. My 'problem' has always been with too much hair, rather than too little, and my kudzu brows require daily tweezer maintenance as it is -- after which I really resent any further impositions on my time in the form of pigment or putty to be gooped back on.

No, seriously. I inherited my dad's K-drama teen villain brows:
Kim Woo-Bin as Choi Young-Do in Heirs. Which I'm totally hate-watching, btw. Why can't I stop?!
Which I'm not strictly complaining about, because if I still had them arched bushes I could do many an impressive scowl of plotty doom as the camera zooms and the sinister violins kick in. Unfortunately, the nineties ultra-thin brow trend came just in time to legitimise my adolescence ultra-ultra-enthusiastic wielding of tweezers...

[wait, no, pictoral evidence redacted BURNED FOR EVER]

A gallon of castor oil (old wives' tale that certainly worked for me) coupled with my natural were-tendencies helped them bounce (bush?) back a bit, but over the past 2 years or so I've noticed legit (vs self-inflicted) thinning of my hairs :O Which I'm told can be due only to that 28-30 ageing jump. This, combined with the increasing visibility of 'Teh Brow' (thankfully, in a variety of thicknesses and shapes to complement various looks) in fashion's new/old flirtation with minimalism, have brought me reluctantly into the daily eyebrow-filling fold. Ish. 

The arsenal:
1. Tweezers :P Used in moderation and never while inebriated. Mine have a spring in the middle that does all the gripping for you, from a Japanese drugstore. I prefer angled tips to straight or really tiny pointy ones.
2. Shu Uemura 6OB badger brush -- very firm, with short hairs, and much finer and smaller than any other brow brush I've seen [some comparisons here], it's actually mainly sold as an eyeliner brush. Excellent for flicking on really precise, thin lines, naturally tapering at the tip (the hairs get finer and less loosely packed at the longer tip) -- i.e. just like natural brow hairs -- and works with gels as well as powders
3. Spoolie. Essential for making brow products look more like brow / less like product -- you wouldn't pack on eyeshadow without blending at least the edges, right? And even without colour products, a spoolie's necessary to give my wayward sprouting-in-all-directions brows a neater appearance. This one's actually a GWP from Suqqu (stop laughing :P), and while its bristles are finer and more varied in shape/size, and the whole shebang lasts longer than cheap unbranded spoolies (mine's survived daily use for 3 years and counting), I couldn't exactly recommend shelling out for it. It's not even angled!
4. Suqqu Eyebrow Powder 02 (discontinued). Suqqu used to make five single shades of eyebrow powder (dryish, densely packed shades of greyed black, olive and brown). This was their ashiest dark brown (cooler than any of the browns in either of their current eyebrow palettes).
5. + 6. Shu Uemura H9 Hard Formula Brow Pencil 02 Seal Brown and 05 Stone Grey -- deservedly cult products, and the ones I reach for when in need of a quick, one-product, my-brows-but-better look. There's a lot of guff talked about these, but really, it's hardly rocket science. They're hard-textured pencils which dispense colour very lightly (no risk of a sharpie effect) and work just as well sharpened to a regular pencil point as to the angled 'Shu' slice. Oils on existing hairs (or skincare/base products in that area) will help to release more colour, but they'll still work to fill in genuinely sparse areas -- as you'll see below, they swatch just fine onto paper. One thing is true, however -- one pencil will last years of daily use.
7. + 8. Suqqu Eyebrow Liquid Pen 01 Moss Green and 02 Brown I mostly reserve for the tiny bald patch in the middle of my left brow, and to extend the very tail ends of both i.e. places where I have no hair with which to 'blend in' powder or pencil strokes. Using these alone takes a bit too long for a brow-imperfectionist like me -- you're essentially drawing on a myriad on baby-fine hairs one by one -- but if you happen to have the time/patience and want/need something extremely precise whose results that mimic the natural colour, sheen and even texture of real brow hair, then I highly recommend these. Having tried a handful of cheaper offerings from Japanese and Western brands, the Suqqu pens stand out for me not only in their carefully balanced cool shades, but in the fine brush tip that dispenses a moderate but even flow of pigment without flooding or skipping. Maybe it's just bad luck, but the few Japanese drugstore pens which equal Suqqu on these two counts (and share their water- and oil-proof indelibility) have all dried out or become otherwise unreliable (flaky/crumbly formula or faded in colour) after about two months; the Suqqu pens have stayed perfectly reliably consistent since I purchased them last winter -- my Moss Green is still going strong, and my Brown has (which sees much more frequent -- almost daily -- use) only just run out of juice (repurchased during Selfridge's Black Friday promo).
9. Rouge Bunny Rouge Eye Gloss I don't often quote RBR copy (the blog's already verbose enough without their dose of purple) but this one really does what it says on the tin site: 
The formula is wax free and achieves perfect transparency and a soft light film....Brush onto brows for a dewy effect.
I also don't often use this on brows, preferring to err on the side of under- than over-groomed, and preferring the eye gloss itself as a minimalist eyelid wash or purely textural highlighter, but when a modicum of extra polish is wanted this is my product of choice -- any other kind of gel/liquid/wax 'holding' product on my brows adds far too much texture (more often than not crunch) to justify their grooming effects for me -- the RBR gloss adds a very natural gleam and offers gentle hold with no weight (flattening brows unnaturally into the skin) or hardness. And it's not going to rain down brown/black flakes when you sneeze, either. :P


Time to see some of these in action! You'll also have noted that I have two shades of both the Shu pencils and Suqqu pens -- this is because I often lighten my brows to match my (almost invariable lightened and warmed-up) hair so tend to transition from one, through a blend/combination of the two, to the other. Matching / naturalism aside, I also switch between them to harmonise or contrast with either cooler or warmer looks e.g. see Seal Brown, Stone Grey, and a mix of the two used in the three looks here.

Swatches
(My Suqqu 02 pen was on its very last legs here, sorry -- please pretend it's texturally the equal of 01 and just look at its colour.)

On white paper
swatches Suqqu Brow Powder 02, Shu Uemura Hard 9 Eyebrow pencil Seal Brown and Stone Grey, Suqqu Eyebrow Liquid Pen 02 Brown and 01 Moss Green
On the back of my hand
swatches Suqqu Brow Powder 02, Shu Uemura Hard 9 Eyebrow pencil Seal Brown and Stone Grey, Suqqu Eyebrow Liquid Pen 02 Brown and 01 Moss Green
Suqqu powder 02 swatched twice (left: one very fine swipe of the 6OB brush, right: built up to show how the shade deepens and cools down as it's layered)
See, there's nothing scarily green about the Suqqu Moss Green shade-- it's so ashy an off-black it makes Shu Stone Grey pull almost khaki. If you want green, check out Fude Takumi Eye Brow Liner in Pure Brown, my latest there's-got-to-be-a-cheaper-sub-for-Suqqu experiment :P

Er, any lime-haired beauties out there who'd like a swatched-once pen, SIB? Just shout.


Tworoutines now, in scary macro.

My ultra-groomed brow routine, practised very rarely.
NOTE these pictures are taken in warm artificial light -- the products look much cooler in real life, without these yellow-red tones.
1. Bare but spoolied

2. Suqqu Brow Powder 02 on Shu 6OB brush:
Suqqu Brow Powder 02 on Shu 6OB brush

3. Suqqu Brow Pen 02 Brown to further fill in and extend the very tail:
Suqqu Brow Pen 02 Brown

4. RBR Eye Gloss, lightly brushed through, with a bit extra to tame the drooping willowy hairs in the middle (apart from taming, see how it 'plumps up' the whole brow? Like a good lipgloss):




My everyday routine consists of just one product. Here's an example during a cooler brow month with the Shu pencil.
1. Bare but spoolied

2. Shu Uemura H9 Pencil Stone Grey
Shu Uemura H9 Pencil Stone Grey

3. Spoolie again, to blend and soften
Shu Uemura H9 Eyebrow Pencil Stone Grey


For the effect of the Suqqu powder used alone, see here. These two looks show the Suqqu pen in 01 Moss Green.

Suqqu, Simply

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Owing to my recent focus on the back to basics stuff of skincare, base, brows and lashes (posts on base and lashes yet to come), and trying to take my time to apply those more mindfully than is my usual slapdash rush so-can-I-play-with-the-colours-now? wont, I've mostly been wearing pared-down, simple (rather than minimalist) colour looks.

I've been on this kick for a while -- longer than my usual flirtations with plainness -- I think because these looks work so well as palette cleansers in a season of obligatory excess. Being an immature contrarian, my usual penchant for sparkly green eyeshadow is slightly dampened by the fact that for this month, sparkly green eyeshadow is expected.

So when I saw Sara's genius layering of the sparkly forest green with the copper-peach from Suqqu EX-19 Touryokuzora, to make a very understated TAUPE, of all things, I needed to get me some of that immediately.
natural light
A layer of copper-peach, a layer of forest green, and one more layer of copper-peach on top produces a deliciously complex, murky gilded taupe -- it reminds me of the the sandy-ashy bottom-most shade in Guerlain 2 Place Vendôme [Karla Sugar's swatch], which I ditched a few years ago, as one killer shade out of six wasn't quite good enough, but this is even BETTER. Because Suqqu textural unctuousness aside, look at what happens when direct sun hits the swatch:
Suqqu EX-19 Touryokuzora Christmas Set B layered swatch
full, direct sun
This layered shade looks warmer on me than on Sara, unsurprisingly, considering my cooler, paler skintone (compare my original swatches with hers) -- if you try this, I'd love to hear how it reads on you and what order/how many layers you most prefer. :D

On the eye, I applied my triple layer sandwich all over and used a fourth layer of the forest green to darken the outer v and lower lashline:
indirect natural light
direct sun *squiiiiint*

Other ingredients in this simple look: Guerlain Rouge G Genna on lips (applied with lipbrush, edges then softened with fingertip) and Canmake CL03 Clear Sunset cream blush on cheeks:
Suqqu EX-19 Touryokuzora, Guerlain Rouge G Genna, Canmake CL-03 Clear Sunset
Base: KGD Maifanshi Moisture Foundation 001, Burberry Sheer Concealer 01Brows: Shu Uemura H9 Stone GreyLashes: Kiss Me Heroine Make Volume&Curl S

The Beauty Spotlight Team: Weekend Links

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Have you ever wondered if the Tom Ford Silvered Topaz Eye Color Quad is similar to his She Wolf Ombre Eye Color Trio? Well, Lola's Secret Beauty Blog is having a showdown between them!

Carrie from eyeliner on a cat invites you to join her on a journey through time and space as she talks about one of the greatest and most meaningful joys in her life: real Mysore Sandalwood oil.

Christmas is still a couple of weeks away, but spring collections are already popping up! Mostly Sunny gives you a sneak peek and quick swatches of Dior Trianon for spring 2014 !

Need a gift for a bath-lover (or yourself)? LUSH's Holiday 2013 Collection is fabulous! Pammy Blogs Beauty shares her thoughts on some of her favorites from the collection!

Kate splits hairs over brow products and shares both an elaborate and an everyday routine. Hop over to drivel about frivol for a browse (har har).

Marcia from Beauty Info Zone has never had a Christmas stocking but she can still dream of what she'd want in one!

Prime Beauty is loving the out-of-this-world Wondervision Eye Set in Cosmic from the Smashbox Holiday 2013.

Beautiful to look at but not so impressive on,Visionary Beauty is not so
taken with some of this years Holiday offerings from Chanel.

Lisamarie from Beauty Crazed celebrates the holidays with Mariah Carey by OPI nails that are merry and bright - check out her swatches and get some Christmas spirit!

15 Minute Beauty is going contest crazy! Be sure to check out her big list of giveaways, including the Naked3 and enter to win!

Jessika from polish insomniac has taken a trip to outer space. Will she come back or stay in the land of Cosmos??

With the holidays front and center now, what would be on your wishlist? Maybe Pink Sith has some great ideas for you or then again maybe she doesn't!

Perilously Pale shows us one of the most insanely beautiful bronze eyeshadows ever along with a fabulous matte taupe to boot. Check out her review of Ellis Faas Lights in 303 Bronze and Creamy Eyes E107 Taupe.

Back to Basics: Lashes

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This post is not about mascaras -- I've written reviews on those before and no doubt more will be forthcoming, such is my fondness for sampling new formulas and such my apparently freakish ability (established through many a makeupalley makeup board poll) to run through a tube in about six weeks on average...

Instead, I'll be talking about the para-lash-tools of curler, mascara guard, and lash comb, pictured here with my current pair of go-to mascaras: Fasio Full Dynamic Volume for fluttery and L'Oréal Telescopic False Lash Waterproof [known as Telescopic Shocking Extensions WP in the US] for bolder lashes -- you can compare&contrast the effects of these two along with a colourful RMK in this post.


Curler
Mine's from Chanel. *cringe* Have I mentioned how irritating I find that? With frequently replaced basics (and I count lash curlers an absolute bottom-line desert-island basic beauty item, trumping even undereye concealer, tweezers, or lipstick, and only giving way to sunscreen, moisturiser, or oxygen...) I take an inability to find a cheap, easily accessible drugstore option as a personal failure, and to add insult the injury this Chanel curler was limited edition outside of the US, so I need to bother friends for repurchases, and live in fear of the day they discontinue it altogether.
Unfortunately, the Chanel is far and away the best fit for my lashline and that's the most important factor to consider when purchasing a curler. I say 'lashline' specifically, as I've noticed in makeupalley discussions that people tend to ask for curler recommendations to fit, for example, "big, almond-shaped eyes," but it's not the overall eye shape or size but the length and curve of the upper lashline only which the curler has to fit. For example, though my eyes aren't particularly round, my upper lashline is actually very curved, especially owing to the downward slope of my epicanthic fold at the inner corner. The Shu curler, which is usually recommended for neither-round-nor-very-flat eyes like mine, tends to pinch at the corners of my eyes, while Shiseido's, flatter still, is unusably uncomfortable and feels obviously like I'm trying to make a curve conform to a rigid straight line.
The length of the lashline is also a factor, and it's not always straightforwardly related to eye size; those with hooded eyes or a crease which extends 'beyond' the lower lashline may need a longer, bigger curler than they'd think considering eye size alone, while I've also come across round eyes which owe much of their roundness to a foreshortened, very curved upper lashline, thus requiring a smaller curler. My upper lashline is pretty proportionate to my smallish eyesize (i.e. shortish), so the Chanel is a good fit while larger curlers with a similar curvature (e.g. those by Kevyn Aucoin or MAC) tend to pinch the corners at my lower lashline, and even without that, sometimes catch and kink my outer lower lashes as I curl.
A perfectly fitting curler should give evenly fanned-up-and-out lashes with minimal effort; one which is close enough not to necessarily pinch might still leave some lashes uncurled, some angled more outwardly/upwardly/basically awkwardly than others, or clump some lashes together, depending on where the mismatch lies. Up to you whether that really matters, of course, but as established I'm all kinds of uncompromising cray about this. :D
Good news is, once you've found a good fit, there's not much else to worry about. I can't discern vast differences in construction quality or effectiveness between curlers at various price points, let alone expensive heated ones -- they all gradually lose their springiness with use and after about a year the difference is sufficiently noticeable (er... I'm picky enough) to require replacing. Acquiring the Chanel curler is so annoying I usually eke out another 6 months' use; the only curlers which are solid enough to last two full years for me are the gold Shu Uemura ones. Maintaining a curl is entirely up to mascara formula (general rule of thumb for stubbornly uncurly lashes: go waterproof), rather than the curlers themselves.
Far more important than the curler itself is the pad. For a smooth even curl rather than harsh kinks, look for pads with a curved top edge that extends beyond the base (which fits into the slot in your curler) -- the side cross section should look like a cartoon mushroom. I like ones that are firm but not rock-hard -- a little cushioniness is good; too much squishiness, so that I have to really squeeze the curlers to get any resistance, means it's time to change pads (this happens about once every three months). Don't worry if the curler that fits your lashline comes with horrid hard rectangular pads -- you will be able to find rounded replacements to fit -- pads only come in about 3 lengths and as they're soft and malleable, curvature isn't a factor. Muji ones (two a pack, for about £1) replace my Chanel ones perfectly well.
That's about it :) I don't have any special tricks to do with the actual curling -- as always, I prefer to put time into finding the perfect tool that obviates the need for extra work on my part. After doing eyemakeup, I brush through my lashes with a cheap Sally's spoolie to remove any shadow/liner residue, then it's a regular textbook triple-press curl moving ouwards from right at the base of the lashes to the tips, angling the curler upwards incrementally with each press.


Mascara Guard
Available for about £1 on ebay, Sasa, or your local Asian drugstore, these are an absolute necessity if you have hooded eyes, have a penchant for big mascara wands, or otherwise grr argh at errant mascara smears marring your perfectly applied eye makeup on the regular. 
Sure, you could go oldschool and use a name card, but 1. it won't conform nearly as nicely to the curve of your lid, and 2. unlike one of these plastic dealies, those aren't really cleanable/reusable. A mascara guard probably saves me a minute a day of pure time, and let alone mennymenny braincells' worth (that's the technical unit) of concentration early in the morning -- assuming 70 years of daily mascara-application, £1 has essentially bought me 17 days over a lifetime o.O 

For lower lashes, just rotate the whole shebang 180º.
L'Oréal Telescopic False Lash WP mascara
There are a few different kinds out there, but no worries, I don't bore you wth a disquisition on their various qualities :P It's just a piece of plastic to place between lashes and skin to enable enthusiastic on-gooping of mascara, after all.... I like this foldable pink one for its neatness and portability but more cumbersome ones like this one
work fine, too, mildly annoying as the teeth can be. And its size makes it a bit easier to find on one's vanity in the mornings :P Clean off the built-up mascara gunk when it starts looking gross to you by wiping with alcohol.


Lash Comb
As you'll have noticed, most lash guards come with combs, sometimes in several widths. Personally, I find flimsy plastic lash tines stand no chance of declumping anything in my thicket of waterproof-lacquered lashes, and always opt for metal. Consider the spacing/density of the teeth -- too wide is obviously useless for separation but finer isn't always better -- beyond a certain point teeth approaching spoolie-density can take off too much product, which might be handy for an extremely naturalistic lash tint, but isn't exactly versatile. Lash combs require frequent cleaning to work effectively -- dip in alcohol and wipe off onto a non-linty cloth until the teeth and spaces between them are clear.

My cheapy Sasa metal comb has teeth of medium density/spaces, and pointy tips to get between especially stubborn clumps. I don't reach for it daily, but wouldn't be without it on troublesome lash days (I get those those instead of bad hair days) or to shape up otherwise messy mascara formulas. Like the Kiss Me Heroine Make Volume&Curl S I'm currently testing:

Bare, curled lashes

One coat of KMHM Volume&Curl S creates a bit of a clumpy mess, owing to a combination of its wet formula and uneven coating of bristles:

After brushing through with my metal lash comb, a much neater, more even coating on re-separated lashes, that's still visibly more 'done' than my bare lashes (using a spoolie or ultra-fine comb would pretty much bring me back to the first picture):
This isn't really enough drama for me, which is why I won't be repurchasing this mascara, excellent curl-holder though it undoubtedly is.


That's about it for lashes :) Updated foundation match post to come, and then we're done for this series!

Ellis Faas Hot Lips L404 Fluo Pink

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I adore the concept and aesthetic behind Ellis Faas' makeup line and have previously swatched the full ranges of eyeshadow and lip/cheek colours. If only to remind myself that even literal silver bullets aren't going to make the largely muted or dusty shade range magically easy to wear for me.

Imagine my excitement when I read on Makeup4All of the new Hot Lips range -- opaque liquid lipsticks in obnoxious brights!

Dial up the squee when a makeup-loving pal sends me her briefly tested bullet in L404 Fluo Pink to play with. (In hindsight, this was warning bell the first: we share similar tastes in lip products, and what doesn't work for her usually ends up a fail on me.) Not that I thought much beyond "AH MAH GAH SO PAAAAAHNK!!!! :DDDDDD" at the time.
Ellis Faas Hot Lips L404 Fluo Pink
See? PAAAAHNK.
But wait... what...is that...stench? Ellis Faas, putting a scent in one of her lip products?! And a sickly artificial fruit candy/toilet cleaner hybrid I'd peg as Maybelline in a blind smell test, to boot? That, my dears, is the peal of warning bell the second.

Eh, I'll suck it up for the killer shade and no doubt awesome formula. (Did you know that trying to pronounce Ellis Faas while drunk and in a Finnish accent naturally produces the words 'awesome formula'? True story.)

Pigmentation is insane, so let's take the tiniest dot (basically one of the bubbles the showerhead dispenses) and work it in with a lipbrush:
Applies as a glossy thick liquid, sets to a satiny finish that approaches matte staindom as it wears. Even freshly applied, with still a bit of gloss to it, it's not the most flattering texture on me. You couldn't tell I'd exfoliated and triple-layered lip moisturisers the night before in preparation for this? It brings out a ring of flaky skin on my upper lip I didn't know I had and highlights even the finest liplines on both upper and lower lips... :/

And after a morning's worth of tea and snacking?
D: But whyyyyyy
This formula is marketed as very long-lasting -- a hybrid liquid lipstick and stain -- but despite the formula's dry 'grabbiness' I find its lasting power comparable to that of an emollient cream lipstick. Lasting power isn't a significant factor for me, but uneven, patchy fading is not something I'll put up with.
Angst aside, note that this colour has warmer corally topnotes sitting on a much cooler pink base -- as it sets, and even more so as it fades, Fluo Pink will turn an increasingly lighter and cooler pink; the swatch on the Ellis Faas site is a very heavy one, hence its warmth. You'll see it's quite a warm-cool pink-coral-red chameleon in the following pics; the one constant is its kapow neon brightness.

Anyway, that first test wasn't really a fair one. Can't expect all pigmented liquid lipsticks to be as well behaved and magically moisturising as a Guerlain L'Extrait. I wear balm underneath almost all formulas, so let's do that:
other makeup of note: Kate Deep Trap Eyes GY-1, Addiction Damask Rose cheekstick
Eeeeep goopy sticky horror DNW! And still with the lipline-sinkage! I tried several different balms underneath. Very well blotted. XD All with a similar effect. This formula just won't stick to a slick base -- it goes patchy or slips all over the place -- and with balm underneath you can watch the uneven fading entropic process happening over the course of about 3 minutes.

Okay, so let's try balm over that thin coat above:


Still a little gloopy, but liveable! And after all, DAT PINK.
eyes: Shu Uemura G White Rainbow and RBR Batiste Grayling cheeks: Face Stockholm New York
^That picture is the better representation of Fluo Pink's colour; the following, despite the dimmer and dodgier lighting, gives a better indication of just how eye-searingly fluo-bright it is:

Unfortunately, in real life, thisapplication starts fading after a drink of water, like this:

As well as fading unevenly from my inner lip, it is BLEEDING. With the myriad of lip-product issues and problems I experience, bleeding is not something that's even on my radar. One product in the history of makeup has ever bled on me: OCC Lip Tar. And that's when I realised: Ellis Faas Hot Lips is an unholy hybrid of two spectacularly disastrous products for me: the incredibly drying, bleedy and messy OCC Lip Tars and the never-setting filmy, unevenly fading Armani Lip Maestros. Flavoured by Maybelline. D:

The ironic cherry atop the woecake? The boffins at Ellis Faas have finally tinkered the previously troublesome click-pen showerhead applicator to perfection. That behaved like a champ, dispensing a predictable amount of product with every click with no waiting or suspense or indeed fluorescent pink showers, whenever I reached for it, for a whole month. -______-


In conclusion: *adopts foetal position*


PS other things I've tried over the past month and am too dispirited to post pictures of:
  1. balm/gloss mixed in = same gloopy effect as balm beneath.
  2. balm/gloss layered with Hot Lips in various sandwiches = same initially okay but subsequently bleedy effect as balm over.
  3. applied straight from the bullet, neat, and with all the balm/gloss foofera = no difference.
  4. with concealer all over my lips as a base / around the lipline in an attempt to contain the bleeding = NOTHING controls the bleeding.

Twenty Questions

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It's my turn in the hotseat for The Beauty Spotlight Team's game of twenty questions, which will hopefully allow you to get to know us all a bit better, aside from our minutest preferences in eyeshadow finish... so this drivel about drivel about frivol. It's meta, see?

I took the liberty of cherry-picking our BST questions list and then added others posed by readers and makeupalley denizens. Began by attempting to impose some kind of order, soon gave in to free-associative entropy…. this should not surprise anyone who's visited in the past :D Pull up a chair, pour out a cuppa and have some snacks handy: it's an epic ramble.

this is where the drivel happens / it is vital to alternate sweet and savoury to prolong your snacking stamina

1. What time do you wake up in the morning?
I aim to get up an hour before I need to be out the door, which would allow a generous 10-15 minutes to apply thoughtful makeup, another 10 minutes to make neat swatches and 5 minutes of picture-taking in that great early-morning light, along with the regular-person morning-routine stuff. In practice I fall out of bed 5-45 minutes before I'm due to leave and at least once a week I'll rock the bare-faced with glasses and headband-over-mysterious-Johnny-Bravo-quiff-that-has-manifested-overnight look.

2. How do you take your coffee?
IMMODERATELY AND INDISCRIMINATELY. 
I adore good coffee and on weekends will stock up on some freshly roasted single-estate beans, faff around with a burr grinder, fancy-ass water, thermometer and siphon pot, the works. Most mornings it's a few scoops of whatever I ground last weekend in a cafetière. If it's the good stuff I take it black; cream and sugar are added in increasing quantities to adulterate increasingly questionable coffee. Which I WILL still drink because addict. Will also drink: those Japanese cans of what is basically condensed milk containing maybe 0.01% of blandest 'Blue Mountain'. May also have been known to nibble instant coffee granules while waiting for kettle to boil during deadline pile-ups…

3. What do you carry with you every day? Makeup or otherwise.
Whee, I get to sneak a 'what's in my bag' tag! The contents are too boring to justify a solo post -- super dry skin ensuring no need to touch up anything else, the only makeuppy things I take are my lip of the day and a brush for it. I always have a clear SPF and a tinted Fresh Sugar balm with me, too: currently Kosé Cosmeport Pure Double Collagen SPF 20 (cumbersome name, great product; get it here) and Cherry. And my snazzy plastic apple mirror, particularly effective held up as I'm touching up a Rouge G with its useless sliver that keeps snapping shut :P
I also carry a travel bottle of Muji cleansing oil for sensitive skin, some Haus of Gloi pumpkin butter in another Muji pot, and my Sunplay body sunscreen, so that I'm ready to swatch whenever opportunity strikes. Eye drops for my dry eyes, Paul&Joe makeup bag for RDA of kyoot.

The P&J bag with some boring essentials, to illustrate size:
Boring stuff aside, I always have my kindle paperwhite with me, and two contrasting paperbacks. Because what would I do if my phone and ereader run out of juice and I'm not in the mood for one of the paper books?! Cultivate an inner life?? PAH.

4. Have you ever been "recognised" in public?
A bare handful of times. And invariably on a stringy-haired, bare-faced/failed-experimental makeup day. Readers are always lovely and gracious, I'm always highly traumatised and flaily and attempting to sink into the ground. Several sales associates/makeup artists have also recognised me from the blog -- they like to drop this oh-so-casually into the conversation juuuust as they're manoeuvring a sharp liner around my lash line or painstakingly painting my cupid's bow. >:C Y my frivolous drivel fail to strike FEAR AN TREMBLIN RESPECT into the hearts of wo/men, eh?

5.How do you approach beauty and mu when you feel down or need a pick me up? 
I'm much likelier to reach for the gin, junk food, pink mascara, canary yellow blush and all teh glitter rather than lighting a scented candle and massaging the leftover organic constituents of my raw-food salad into my skin before settling down to a nice three hour meditation session. (And by 'much likelier to' I mean ALWAYS.)

6. Are your family/friends supportive of your blogging?
Definitely, as the latest in a long and ongoing string of hobbies, but in a teasing way, again with the whole never-being-taken-seriously thing. But really, my nearest&dearest have bought me makeup, posh camera equipment, let me test formulas on their skintypes/tones and make them over to try placements, waited patiently while I swatched an entire beauty department while offering the occasional pep-talk / shoulder massage / squirt of isotonic water / scooby snack as I passed them on my laps…

7. Do you find blogging about your interests to be a joy or a burden?
Never a burden or I'd stop. I've come to actively enjoy every step of the process (though picture-taking remains my least favourite and most often frustrating part, as my lack of actual skills makes me highly dependent on the vagaries of natural light) and I love interacting with my fellow bloggers and reading every single lovely, thoughtful comment someone leaves me. For me, keeping things quite amateur/personal seems to be key -- the minute I start setting up posting schedules or try to get all slick and churn out reviews of alltehthings, it would tip over into work and become a burden quite quickly, I think.
Some of my other hobbies seem less conducive to being blogged. With knitting/sewing/dance, I prefer to just get on with it. Fragrance, food and media (books, telly, music etc.) are hobbies I share with many people in my offline life, so I tend to be talked out about those before settling down to type. Makeup seems to be uniquely communicable through a combination of words and pictures that makes for a fun, varied blogging experience. Not to mention the truly awesome community of interesting, passionate and just plain strange folks. :D

8.What was your first real job? 
Discounting the tutoring/dance-teaching/waitressing gigs I had through school and uni, my first real job, which I thought of as The First Rung Of The Ladder To A Glittering Career In The Field was at an indie fashion magazine, so new then that I had a hybrid writer/stylist/PR/gofer role.

9. How has your relationship to beauty products changed since you began blogging? 
I was afraid I might turn into a consumerist vortex using the blog to justify all the purchases 'For Science!' but I think I've actually become more critical and less willing to shop -- it'd be adding another 'to review' item to the pile, after all, and I'm always already running behind i.e. have you heard me talk about any of the products featured in the topmost pic? Exactly. I already feel a bit guilty for posting repetitive looks, so 'but I've already blogged something similar' is most often the deciding argument against acquiring another red lipstick whose minute difference in tone from the dozen I already own my camera will probably fail to capture. I always have and probably always will fall for genuine refinements and advances in texture and formula, though. And blogging has made me a much more regular blog reader, which means I'm far more aware and humbled by the extent of knowledge/skill and variety of approaches out there, and much better at pulling a greater variety of looks out of the products I already own.

10. Is there a category of products you like (or dislike) blogging about in particular?
Eyeshadow palettes are my favourites! There's just so much more room for wank finest discernment of exquisite detail, and clowning creative experimentation with placements and combinations to draw out its potential. I'm rarely inspired to write about skincare or non-colour makeup -- behind my current 'back to basics' series lurks a cunning plan to have a few key posts I can link to in future thus avoiding the need to address those topics ever again….

11. What niches of makeup or beauty products do you feel are currently underserved by today's offerings?
Genuinely pale foundations. Especially formulas for dry skin -- even in 2013, it seems that whiteness is most often achieved through chalk. It also feels like the unctuous textures and delicate finishes that work for my uber dry skin tend to come in mostly brown-toned, muted colours, while the garish clown shades that please my tacky heart are mostly to be found in formulas barely differentiated from actual crayons, chalks and craft glitter. I want bridges, dammit!

12. Are there any colours/products you WON'T try?
….No. :D The above whinge aside, I'm irritatingly optimistic by nature and will still play with every new matte yellow eyeshadow (however heavily dandruffed in its own powder fallout), every neon terracotta foundation labelled 'porcelain shade #0000' (lies, lies!!) and every new shade of a waxy-sweaty chubby lip crayon going. I'll also wear anything at all out and about, and have, including but not limited to red lip gloss all over my eyelids (man, that was not a fun blinking day).

13. How did you acquire/develop your current sense of aesthetics?
(Clearly subconsciously hate myself as seem to be placing these questions in highly pointed order…)
The most recent seismic shift happened when I fell down the Japanese makeup rabbit hole around five years ago. Their OL styles were incredibly helpful as I was trying to adjust to a more grown-up, professional way of self-presentation six days a week (Sundays will always remain holy clown days) -- they seemed to allow more room for creative, thoughtful but still wearable looks, with lots of geeky minor variations of placement, finish and tone, than the Bobbi Brown / Laura Mercier schools of bland 'polish'. And learning to navigate and work with those thoughtful and constantly renewed Japanese textures, of course.
But I first fell in love with makeup as a very young, stage-struck kid, and being on the professional ballerina track until my very late teens, the philosophy and language if not the exact grammar of stage makeup still forms a significant influence even on my blandest, simplest, worksafest looks -- a consideration of overall effect in colour-story and shape, theatricality, escapism, and play, a strong dislike of 'signature' makeup. For more see this early (and early-morning :P) blog manifesto. For more coherence and a very readable social history from someone who gets it, check out Carol Dyhouse's Glamour; obviously Dyhouse and I are both English so sit cosily within a long tradition of fostering and indulging this particular kind of eccentric amateurism -- I'm not claiming to be some kind of mould-breaking original here!

14. What are your beauty pet peeves/greatest annoyances?
My scattershot wanderings through academia (ivory tower, bouncy castle, same as…) would probably all fit easiest under the 'cultural history' umbrella so nothing annoys me more than ahistorical definitions of what is 'flattering' or 'beautiful' makeup -- words even worse than 'in/correct' which at least acknowledge their own social arbitrariness. 'Full, naturalistic brows = the best brows' is a frequent current bugbear, but even supposedly obvious things like 'base should mimic skin' make me twitch -- er, not when the chalk-white-powdered look was the only socially acceptable face and anything else would genuinely look 'wrong'. We are by definition blindest (literally) to the most binding and unspoken aesthetic rules in play in our time, and it's rankest arrogance and idiocy -- like declaring yourself 'trend-free' -- to deny that.

15.Which historical period do you identify with the most for fashion/makeup?
I would never give up the postmodernist perk of being able to cherry pick and reappropriate all of the things! I do have an affinity for periods/areas of concentrated and self-aware change, so let's go with 1920's-30's Shanghai in full melting-pot modernist swing.

16. If you were attending a costume party, who or what would you dress as?
My lazy thrown-together-from-existing-wardrobe costumes for that last-minute, "...wait, this is a costume party, wtf?" realisation are Wednesday Addams; Guybrush Threepwood, mighty pirate (yes, I do have a rubber chicken); or random period extra from the '50s/'60s (hey, I give good subversive Stepford) or from the '20/'30s (effect largely achievable through makeup) as on last Halloween.
My favourite recent costume was Beau Brummell -- I'd found the perfect frock coat in a charity shop and got to stick sideburns on and talk in camp aphorisms aaaaaall night. I also had fun going as Utena in this here wig with my BFF as Anthy swooning into my arms on the regular.

17. Do you have a guilty pleasure? 
Not really :D I am pretty open/shameless about all my pleasures be they '90s anime series, geeky adventure games or terrible teen J/K-dramas. Bit embarrassed by how susceptible I am to Arashi and their damn hooky choons, though.

18. What are some of your favourite movies?
I'm more of a TV series girl, and hate picking favourites, but my most often rewatched include: My Neighbour Totoro, Beauty and the Beast, The Princess Bride, Bringing Up Baby, Some Like It Hot, Singin' In the Rain, Fargo, Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf, Life of Brian/Monty Python and the Holy Grail, Clueless, Mean Girls, and Heathers. Which is going to be A MUSICAL soon, well fuck me gently with a chainsaw.

19. What kind of teenager were you?
Stroppy, is there any other kind? I was a very annoying (again, is there any other…?) oh-so-knowing dabbler in all the subcultures going, who communicated pretty much exclusively in ironic quotations and pop cultural references, i.e. is there any other…

20. What would your dream job be?
Apparently, 'book doctor,' because my heart skipped a beat when I saw a National Health Service recruitment ad for one. Sadly, this turned out to involve prescribing the correct self-help manuals/workbooks from an approved selection to patients with diagnosed mood disorders in the queue for therapy, and not, as I thought, finally getting paid to dispense random book recs to all and sundry, which is already my favourite activity tied with respiration.


There! Anyone who made it through can have first scoop of my bibimbap:

Face Stockholm Crème Blush: New York and Rhinebeck

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Face Stockholm is a brand I remember fondly from my teens, when they had a few shops strewn around London; I used to pop into the Covent Garden branch for a bit of colour therapy on my way back from dance classes every week, and can recall saving up for a sparkly red nail polish and eyeliner to match.

Then came the dark ages aka the Viking un-invasion, when Face turned its back to the UK. So I was very excited to become reacquainted with the line when they recently reentered the market with a shop in Manchester and a counter in the London Bond St. Fenwick, and at cultbeauty online.

This time round, my maturing skin er, tastes led me immediately to their Crème Blush range, and today I'll be focusing on New York and Rhinebeck, both shades my constant blushy companions over the last few months. As four other shades are currently winging their way to me thanks to an American buddy, you can safely assume that I love them. LOVE LOVE LOVE. For swatches of almost every shade, head over to Swatcharama!
(Also love? The fact that I can answer when someone asks me what blush I'm wearing without doing the *coughDeepThroatmumble* or *blankstare RD-38!56X2.35jruik#askty798€ trail off...*)

Packaging: Scandi-sleek mirrored silver compacts which close securely with a satisfying click, lightweight but not flimsy.
Face Stockholm Creme Blush packaging

Ingredients
Face Stockholm Creme Blush ingredients
Despite the, er, compactness of the compact, you get a reasonable 4g of blushy goodness i.e. the same pan amount as Illamasqua's unwieldily-packaged creams, more than the Canmake Clear creams (I suspect ~1.5g as I can use up these up in a few months) or Becca's discontinued cream blushes at 3g each, less than MAC or Nars' 5.5g creams -- i.e. enough that you won't be repurchasing constantly but but not so excessive a quantity that you have to worry about the product going bad before you can finish it, or restrain yourself from buying a whole wardrobe of shades *cough*
Note also that these are made in the USA, which may explain the more reasonable prices in the US vs the UK (just switch out the $ sign for a £ :P)

My initial shades are Rhinebeck (L), an offbeat soft red, and New York(R), a clear, cool pink:
Face Stockholm Creme Blush Rhinebeck and New York

Ingredients are the same for both but Rhinebeck is a more traditional dewycream (think Illamasqua and Becca creams), while New York is a much softerjelly (à la Canmake Clear blushes): textural differences visible even in the pan:
Face Stockholm Creme Blush Rhinebeck and New York textures

This cream/jelly difference also translates to the skin, swatched v. heavily/blended out:
Face Stockholm Creme Blush Rhinebeck and New York swatches

Once blended out, the differences are less apparent to my camera, though on my cheeks New York retains more of a 'squishy' jelly glow while Rhinebeck sets to an almost textureless texture, like a stain on well-moisturised, happy skin. On oilier skins (pretty much 99.999% of the population) I think both will read dewier. In any case, all skintypes can layer these for more glow -- and it's very easy to do, with no risk of tugging, patchiness or balling-up, as these Face Stockholm creams are among the most blendable, most buildable -- most effortless -- textures I've ever encountered. I can't think of a blush analogue closer than those skate-across-the-skin-like-water Suqqu Creamy Glow lipsticks I so adore.

Did I mention these FS cream blushes work on lips too? Because they don't rely heavily on silicones for slip (dimethicone plays a minor backup role to other emollients and binders), they have a more controllable creaminess, which means less mess while lip-painting and absolutely no wayward migration during wear. Oh, and unlike the Illamasqua/Becca products, they're completely scent- and taste-free :D

In practice, applied to cheeks with a Sephora #56 brush and to lips with a Hakuhodo Misako portable: 
Rhinebeck

New York

For the eyes, I pulled two facets from my very well-loved neutral KATE Deep Trap Eyes GY-1 quint -- discontinued, and which now looks like this, btw:
My camera's so much better at seeing fallout than my eyes -- I wonder why it fails at differentiating blush shades :P
Pairing the cooler shades (2, 4, 5) with Rhinebeck, and the warmer ones (1, 2, 3) with New York. Base: Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation 00 Alabaster, Burberry Sheer Concealer 01 Brows: Shu Uemura H9 Seal Brown Lashes: Fasio Full Dynamic Volume BK001.

I thought I'd keep the looks simple/neutral for the purposes of review but you're going to be seeing a lot more of these blushes, paired with all kinds of things, such is their wearability and plain old prettiness. Of course that means not exactly without dupes in my stash, but the selling point of these Face Stockholm blushes is their divine texture/gorgeous finish, so here are some comparisons with the products they'll be ousting from my collection.

Rhinebeck is sister to Becca Watermelon beach tint. 

Very similar colours worn as blush, though I think you can tell the matte Becca isn't as texturally prettifying on my dry skin as the FS cream, and tonally Rhinebeck is sliiightly cooler.

But it's on lips that the dewy superiority of the FS formula becomes much clearer -- Watermelon's matte finish makes it look almost chalky next to Rhinebeck, and even without a mirror it was impossible to forget which side was which -- Rhinebeck felt like a cushiony nothing on my lips, but I could sense Watermelon (which I would previously have also called 'lightweight' without something obvious to compare it to) pulling and puckering my skin.

The beach tints are a much-loved summer/warm weather staple for me, so to find a substitute for my favourite shade (I've used up two previous tubes of Watermelon) in a formula I can wear comfortably year-round? Face Stockholm, ILY *_*


New York is not just a sister but a flat-out twin to Addiction Damask Rose cheek stick, once blended out on the cheeks:
appalling lighting -- will substitute a better pic as soon as I get some sun
Damask Rose is sheerer and has more of a (shimmer-free) sheen than my other Addiction cheek sticks in Amazing and Revenge but its base makes its tone pull lighter -- almost pastel-dusty -- in comparison to New York's jellied hot pink, worn on the lip:

There's less of an obvious visual textural winner here, though I personally prefer the juiciness of the FS side, but in terms of ease and pleasure of application, New York wins, hands down.

Yep, you heard me. I love these Face Stockholm Crème blushes even more than I love not only Becca Beach Tints but Addition Cheek Sticks too. (And since I own five of the former and three of the latter, trust that I love both of those ALOT.) Expect further reviews as my Face Stockholm delivery arrives, and further oustings too: these babies are going to form the core of my almost-completed cream blush wardrobe. Are you excite? I AM EXCITE.

Suqqu EX-19 Touryokuzora + Purples

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Still plumming the depths (gedditgeddit?) of this holiday palette (originally reviewed/swatched here, further looks here, here and here) with the additions of some purple tones -- as suggested by various people including the lovely LipstickBoulevards.

1a Tarina Tarantino Amethyst Android, 1b Clinique Intense Amethyst Quickliner
2a from Shu Uemura x Karl Lagerfeld Smoky Velvet (EU/Asia), 2b from Suqqu 08 Mizuaoi
3a THREE 09 Star Guitar, 3b from Suqqu EX-12 Hisuidama


Look 1
Bronzetaupe from Touryokuzora shaded up from lashline with copperpeach to blend out edges. Lower lashline reverses the gradation with Clinique Intense Amethyst along lashes and Tarina Tarantino Amethyst Android to smoke it down and out. Mascara: KMHM Volume&Curl S.

Lip: Shiseido Nocturne Lacquer Rouge, blotted down to a rosy stain. Base: Burberry Sheer concealer 01 under eyes, otherwise bare skin -- this and the soft lip help balance the slightly forced eye I think :)


Look 2
Touryokuzora's copperpeach on lid with a little of the bronzetaupe to shade the inner socket. Mint from ShuxKarl Smoky Velvet swept up from the inner corner. Purple from Suqqu Mizuaoi to line. Lower lashline light taupe achieved by adding some of the matte white to another mix of the peach + green from Touryokuzora.
Mascara: to celebrate finally finishing that lacklustre KMHM, I cracked open a tube of Elizabeth Proofit Strong Volume&Curl mascara, only to find it's even more lacking in lustre! D:

Lip: a mix of Suqqu Bright-Up Hanabeni and Addiction Day Trip lipsticks (see here and here for how they look individually). Cheek: RBR Gracilis. Base: just Burberry concealer 01, this time because lazy rather than for any particular aesthetic reason...


Look 3
This one's a recreation of a tute in the Chinese edition of Voce Jan 2014 (from which more scans to come on Monday):

How could I resist a) a new lower lashline tweak and b) any use of my beloved Star Guitar quad?
The forest green from Touryokuzora to line, with the bronzetaupe (closer to brow) and copperpeach (closer to lid) for the inner lid shading. Greyed green from Hisuidama swept out from the middle of the lashline for the mid-green mid-wing. (I used some of the Touryokuzora white to block it off more strongly from both the inner lid shading and the liner.) Plum from Star Guitar pushed into inner inner half of lower lashline.
Mascara: Elizabeth Proofit Strong Volume&Curl again -_____-

Lip: YSL Glossy Stain 27 Pêche Cerra-Cola. Cheek: More RBR Gracilis (can you tell I'm trying to hit pan by year's end? :P) Base: I actually wore foundation today! KGD Maifanshi 001 with Burberry Sheer 01 concealer under eyes.


As you can tell, I am still head over heels in love with Touryokuzora, and really enjoying trying ways to make the scary-to-me warm shades wearable. Also, still very into concentrating eyeshadow higher up at the inner corner, in a triangle placement highlighted in last October's Maquia (scanned here, tried here). Also? I NEED my RBR Sea of Clouds refill to get here, like, yesterday. Y a dry dull skin, winter? :(

PS sorry if my pics looks like they were taken underwater -- that'd be the blanket of perma-smog, then.

The Beauty Spotlight Team: Weekend Links

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Ever on the quest for the perfect eye cream, Helen from Lola's Secret Beauty Blog has tried a staggering number, but has finally found the holy grail of holy grail eye creams in Radical Skincare Eye Revive Creme. It truly is amazing!

15 Minute Beauty is trying out the new MAC MasterClass Makeup Brushes, and kind of loves them. Even if they do remind her of a toothbrush.

Beauty Info Zone is taking some daring steps this holiday season. See what the ladies found from Senna Cosmetics to help them stand out from the crowd.

Is Spring in the Air already? Visionary Beauty spies the YSL Flower Crush Spring 2014 Collection

A good finishing powder goes a long way, and Mostly Sunny is head over heels with the new Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder ! There is also a comprehensive overview about all the Guerlain finishing powders she owns. If you never know which one to choose, this is the post to read!

All about the bling? Everyone is at holiday time. Here are Prime Beauty's my Top 10 Shiny, Glittery, Sparkly things for the holiday season!

Pink Sith Need a kickass red lipstick to wear to your next Pepsico Board Meeting to tell them this isn’t your first time at the rodeo? Then you need NARS Guy Bourdin Cinematic Lipstick in Future Red!

Kate says 'hej hej' and 'välkommen' to Face Stockholm's delicious Crème Blushes over at drivöl åbout frivöl. Diacritical marks = LOVE.

It is the time of year for Festive Glitter, Shimmer, and Sparkle! Find out Pammy Blogs Beauty's Top 10 Picks for Glittery Shimmery Favorites!

Perilously Pale finally got her hands on the Urban Decay Naked3 Palette. What does she think of this rose toned take on neutral? Let's find out!

Sometimes you just want to say Oh Phsiiit like polish insomniac suggests. Take a look.

Carrie from eyeliner on a cat has a review and a giveaway this week of her latest obsession: HURRAW! Lip Balms! You can win this trio of luxe, all-natural tea-themed balms: Green Tea, Earl Grey and Chai Spice... sounds delicious, doesn't it?

Magazine Monday: VoCE (Chinese) January 2014

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*mumble* it's still Monday somewhere, right? Oh, right, in my addled I'm-not-coming-down-with-the-flu-on-my-holidays-dammit brain.

Let's get on with the scans! This issue of Chinese VoCE corresponds with (and includes cherry-picked translated content from) the December 2013 issue of VoCE Japan, so don't pout that I'm rushing you into 2014 already.

The main makeup tutorial/feature this issue comes from famous makeup artist Akemi Nakano (she often paints Namie Amuro's face) which I'll vaguely translate as "Grown-Up Eye Makeup With Attack". As in active rather than passive, more realistic/striking than dolly-pretty, more sophisticated beauty than wide-eyed ingenue, and not, sadly, as in 'will enable you to shoot laser beams from your eyeballs'. :( This article is aimed at women over 30 (that's almost my demographic!) and VoCE is an OL makeup magazine still, so take any claims to radical reinvention of the usual aesthetic with a pinch of salt :P

Some key elements in this aesthetic, according to Nakano-san, are:

  1. To maintain a clean and translucent feeling (i.e. this is drama done with lightness).
  2. Avoid undue emphasis on the outer corner of the eye or other areas with natural shadows (vs the by-now most conventional Japanese makeup placement shown for example here, there and everywhere).
  3. Liner should be more finely/precisely drawn than roughly smoked/smudged out, to prevent the eyes from looking tired or dull (...but I'm not over opium eater chic yet!)
  4. Add glow/gloss to eyes OR lips, not both (i.e. pair matte/satin textures with glossier/sparklier ones).
  5. A clean, polished complexion is essential (i.e. no skipping foundation, self!)

The first example is'makeup with attack...that's still sexy', and uses dark shades to create a clean effect, by leaving the outer corner bare. I loved this placement and you can see my (tweaked) trial of this tutorial here (third look).

Specifics of placement: Mid-toned green shade swept out in a low angled shape, kept within the eyelid fold, khaki to line upper lashline and taken softly along the inner 1/4 of the lower lashline. Bordeaux in a very thin line right along the lashes of the inner 1/2 of the lower lashline. Pink and berry shades mixed to shade the inner socket in a triangular placement. (From the pictures I think they ran a shimmery ivory along the outer half of the lower lashline too.) 
Candy pink lips and cheeks to 'lift' the dark eye colours and to 'put pink back' into the skin because khaki tones can emphasise yellow/olive sallowness (this prescription of cool candy pink to 'correct' yellow skins is very conventional in Japanese makeup and something I wish would DIAF already).


The second look is "makeup with attack...that's also on trend" and features a soft grey gradation (greydation!) on the lids, contrasted with bold navy liner and dark blue mascara.

Details of note: the grey shades are applied with a finger to heighten translucency and glow, and again it's the darkest shade which is placed on the inner half of the lid up to the socket. A mix of the darker greys are run along the outer edge of the lower lashline, but not joined up to the shadows on the lid -- it's to balance out the liner above rather than add shading to / extending the outer corner of the eye. Don't force the blue with a big wing-- it's best to keep it effortless/close to the natural shape of your eye -- and it's just fine if it's only a pop of blue that shows when your eyes are closed.
A glossy milky pink blush high up on the cheekbones to add light more than colour, and a glossy, translucent pink lip to balance out the eye.


The third look is "makeup with attack...that's still innocent" with browns. This is probably the clearest demonstration of the 'new' tweaks Nakano-san is talking about because it uses those typical-of-these-mags neutrals, and also because it sits closest to the girly/pretty look she's declaring 'out'.

The typical 'innocent' rounded eye is achieved through centralised placements (of a moderate highlight under the brow and socket shading) rather than the typical vertical gradation. Dark cool brown liner rims the entire upper and lower waterlines to define and add 'attack' even to a prettier eye, but the base of the lashes are meant to be kept free of liner gunk to keep the look still neat and clean. Inner-corner highlight is a subtle and very tiny dot just at the lower inner corner.
Translucent reds on lips (gloss) and cheeks (cream) to add a natural, pretty flush.


Something that struck me while flipping through this issue was how the aesthetic shifts between those features translated from the original Japanese magazine, and the local Chinese content (including ads). I'm not sure I can articulate the differences properly, but the most obviously jarring thing to me is a lack of subtlety / story in the Chinese sections. Here's a fun ombre lip look that's...just an ombre lip. I like more whys and wherefores and wank, as you know! Its basic thought process seems to run: focus on lips ---> big lips good ---> moar big moar gooder ---> let's hugely overdraw our model's already full lips and PS the hell out of the picture while we're at it.
(Someone's so going to come along and say that picture was actually from the original Japanese edition now, to serve me right for broad sweeping generalisations :P I may be cranky because I loathe cheap lace.)


Back to the Japanese stuff. The main reason I buy VoCE (although I don't, really, much preferring Biteki/Maquia) is the SCIENCEY DEATHMATCH (er... my name for it) feature, where ten products from various categories are put through a series of stringent/hilarious tests. Although sanitary towel month was going a bit far for me. You can browse some back numbers (2012 and earlier) here.
This month's deathmatch features rosy/browny My-Lips-But-Better lipsticks: 

Specifically 1. RMK Irresistible Lips B #312. YSL Rouge Volupté 8 Fetish Pink3. Ipsa Lipstick L 9 Salmon Pink Beige 4. Coffret D'Or Rouge Essence PK-278 5. Chanel Rouge Allure 125 Indécise 6. Suqqu Bright Up 05 Hanaazu 7. Dior Rouge Dior 247 Beige Cendré8. Bare Escentuals Marvellous Moxie Make Your Move9. MAC Mineralize Rich Smart & Sweet10. Lancôme Rouge In Love 342N Under the Rose [NB the RIL lipsticks sold in Asia are made in Japan and a different formulation to that sold in Europe/N. America]
I've written about the Coffret D'Or and Suqqu formulas before.

Test 1 measures slip/spreadbility (4 and 10 have the most; 2, 3, 4 and 6 the least -- these are more balmy/creamy than liquifying). Test 2 demonstrates how evenly the formulas apply -- on an egg :D Brushstrokes and unevenness mar 8 especially, and to a lesser extent 1, 6, 9 and 10; 4 is singled out as applying exceptionally evenly despite good pigmentation. In general these results are skewed by pigmentation/depth of colour though.


Test 3 measures teacup transfer! Pretty self-explanatory: 5 and 7 win this one, though again pigmentation/depth of colour affect things.


Test 4 compares how drying the formulas are: 5 (Chanel) by far the most drying, with Coffret D'Or and Lanôme (4 and 10) leading the pack in moisture-retention. [As a dry-lipped freak I must weigh in on this one -- I love the Coffret D'Or formula, but Lancôme Rouges In Love make my lips peel in sheets, and I agree that the reformulated Chanel Rouge Allures are extremely drying. Suqqu Bright Up seems reasonably placed in the middle of this bunch -- unlike the Creamy Glow lipsticks they replaced, a lipbalm is necessary underneath this formula for me.]
Test 5 (my favourite) tests the stickiness of these formulae with sweeties :D (though I'd call Coffret D'Or Rouge Essence balmy rather than actually sticky!) and Test 6 is meant to compare degrees of translucency/opacity but these colours vary too much in depth for solid conclusions to be reached.


Test 7 shows each lipstick applied against pale/neutral, darker yellow/olive and darker peachy skintones respectively and how that skews the appearance of the tones. (Bear in mind that in real life, even with an opaque lip product, increasingly so with sheers, your lip pigmentation/tone will also affect how these read -- this test demonstrates how skintone alone affects colour, everything else being equal.)
As a general rule, stuff looks brighter/clearer against pale neutral skin (which I think is accurate, considering the number of comments I get along those lines when I review lip colours; see also Belly's fascinating Compare and Contrast blog series on this subject), and more muted on darker skintones whether skewing yellow or pink. Also, most of these comments are prefaced with 'these MLBB shades work reasonably well on all skintones!' and personal-preference blahblah but still:
2, 3, and 7 are chosen as particularly harmonious against pinker skins but 5 can pull too dull.
5 is more harmonious for yellower skins; 1, 2 and 3 pull more muted/elegant against yellower skins.
6 is more natural/harmonious on darker (yellow/pink) skins, but 9 and 10 are best suited to pale neutral skintones -- they can look too neon-bright / 'float above' darker skins. 8 is picked out as shifting at least a full shade darker on darker skintones vs paler ones.

Finally, a summation featuring all the lipsticks applied -- again, I appreciate that it's only the skin that's subject to aggressive photoshopping in Japanese articles, so that I can get a reasonable idea of the lipsticks' texture. Coffret D'Or again gives my personally preferred lip-line-minimising look, though now I also want to check out RMK, stat.


Finally finally, more geekery in the form of TOOLS, as selected by a panel of pros and industry folk, who love Shiseido's powder puff; Shalon's foundation sponge; cottons from DR Renoud, Chizuby and Gelee Rich (yeah, I'm ??? over here); and extra-long q-tips from Johnson&Johnson (though the pointy RosaRosa ones, bottom left, look more appealing to me):

Favourite brushes include MAC 215 and 217 and Chanel 15 for eye; angled Bobbi Brown, Etude House and Estee Lauder brushes for brows; Laura Mercier Angled Cheek Contour, Kesalan Patharan Cheek and RMK Cheek brushes for blush; and MAC 187, Kumanofude SS3-3 and Shu Uemura 14 Pony for face. Shiseido sponge tips 201 and 202 are also recommended.

Lash tools include Maris Beauty J-Curl heated curler (it plugs into your laptop's USB drive, apparently), the same Koji mascara guard wot I like, and a very fine Tweezerman Holding Lash Comb. Shiseido Eyebrow scissors 212 and Tweezerman tweezers round this out for brow tools.


P.S. Because I'm both freakishly organised (knowing I'd be aboard this year I finished my Christmas shopping and card-writing and whatnot months ago) and disorganised (as a blogger, time spent preparing for seasonally-appropriate posts? 0 seconds) let this be a place where we can let Christmas pass unmarked-but-for-this-paragraph :) There may be some looking back/looking forward drivel come January, but for now I'll just raise a drink to you all (wiv a little umbrella in!) and wish you a very merry Tuesday :D

The Beauty Spotlight Team: 20 Questions with Polish Insomniac

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It's Jessika's week for 20 Questions from The Beauty Spotlight Team!  Will she crack under the pressure?  Is there a real person under all that glitter (and hair)?  It's time to find out!

Foundation Matches

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It's been a full two years since my last post on this subject, which is absolute eons in base makeup terms according to my Japanese mags (in Japan, base makeup is reformulated and refreshed every season -- that's at least twice a year -- with the latest tech), and there have been quite a few changes since then.

My skin has become even drier and noticeably thinner in those two years, which means that a) there's just plain more to cover in terms of unevenness and general veininess if I want a uniform canvas; b) owing to this greater translucency, blood shows through more strongly, pulling my undertones more towards the cool pink side of neutral; and c) formulas I used to be able to tolerate / swing in summer / make work with careful mixing and priming (e.g. Nars Sheer Glow, Addiction Dewy Glow, Paul&Joe Light Cream S, MUFE Mat Velvet) I just flat-out cannot wear anymore. Since beginning to layer a physical over my chemical sunscreen daily, my face has also become paler -- where it used to range from half a shade to a full shade darker than the rest of me (usually swathed in various draperies :P), now I'm pretty much uniform in colour; so two of the palest shades from my original swatch lineup (Illamasqua Skin Base 02 and Graftobian Lady Fair) are two of the medium ones in today's batch.

Needs aside, my tastes haven't really changed much -- I like as dewy a finish as possible, since my saharan skin will scale even an oil slick back to a satin*; and as emollient a texture as possible, because I prefer working with high-slip creamy things (and they play well with the cream finishes of my skincare); higher pigmentation is better because using a minuscule amount of of a high-coverage product adds less texture than a moderate amount of a sheer one. Alcohol-free is a must, fragrance-free is a huge plus.

I pretty much always apply foundation only where needed after one of my primers, usually sporadically in the triangle from nose to chin, blending out to cover my inner cheeks; I almost never take product onto my forehead or the sides of my face beyond/below my cheekbones. Also, please bear in mind that I apply all of these over my many layers of skincare, including sunscreens, and then a moisturising primer, so if you have dry skin, don't expect these to be comfortable worn neat.

*I like 'dewy' or 'satin' finishes not because they're 'natural' looking but because the formulas with those finishes are more comfortable on my skin. Although I believe concealer must work invisibly, foundations are more like colour products to me and I'll amp up the glow factor, powder things down to matte or layer things up for an extremely polished base depending on what vibe I'm after for a particular look.


Let's take a look at the products themselves!
LIQUID: 
Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation 00 Alabaster -- a rare neutral-pink shade among BB's yellow lineup, in an easy-to-work with liquid with medium coverage that sets to a comfortable satin on me. Alabaster in Skin runs much lighter than Alabaster in most of her other foundations.

CREAMS: 
Illamasqua Skinbase 02, a gel-cream whose chalky matte finish I loathe, actually, but a reasonably accessible pale option and I'm swatching the last dregs anyway.
Laura Mercier Silk Crème Soft Ivory [see here], an old favourite which is sadly now too dark and yellow for me to wear for most of the year.
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation 001 -- a new favourite discovered this year, a similarly thick silicone-y cream with a satin finish to Laura Mercier Silk Crème, but more emollient and with slightly less hardcore coverage. Fabulously perfecting of skin texture, however.
Mehron HD Pro Full Coverage Cream LT-1 (round pot) -- a lovely high-slip, thinnish cream with impressive coverage, but sadly unforgiving of dry skin.
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Ultra-Lites palette -- slightly thicker than Mehron, with even greater coverage, and even less forgiving on dry skin in real life (hello fines lines and flakes!) Photographs absolutely flawlessly, however. This palette includes one yellow, two neutral, and two pink shades. I wear the two neutral ones: Lady Fair and Porcelain and dabble with the others as correctors.

STICKS:
Vapour Organic Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 90 [reviewed] -- the most emollient formula in the whole batch, but slightly unrefined in finish -- it's plain old coverage without any skin-texture flattery.
Shu Uemura Nobara stick in 584 and 784, magic on pores and skin texture, concealer-level coverage, now discontinued >:C


SWATCHES
In order of depth this time.  These shades cover me throughout the year from depth of British winter pale to running-around-in-the-tropical-summer-for-months 'tanned' -- I know they seem to cover an insanely wide range but bear in mind these are very heavy swatches, and most days I'll sheer out a tiny dot the size of a grain of (arborio, if we're being specific :P) rice with a damp beautyblender sponge for my entire face. With my dry skin, I never experience oxidisation, and my inner arm is pasty enough that the darker shades look unnaturally orange, but except for the MAC F&B all these shades are paler than a MAC NC15.
MAC Face & Body N1 (as a reference only)
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 784, neutral yellow, full coverage
Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory neutral peach, full coverage
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 584 neutral pink, full coverage
Vapour Atmosphere Luminous 90, cool peach, med-full coverage
Bobbi Brown Skin 00 Alabaster, neutral pink, medium coverage
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Lady Fair, neutral, v full coverage
Illamasqua Skin Base 02, neutral pink, medium+ coverage
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture 001, neutral-slightly pink, medium+ coverage
Mehron HD Pro LT-1, neutral, full coverage
Graftobian HD Glamour Cream Porcelain, neutral, v full coverage



MIXERS
...are still necessary because often the formulas that work for my skin at its driest (e.g. Vapour) come in shades too dark for my winter pallor, while those pale enough (Graftobian, Mehron) need much textural improvement through highlighter -- I can't quite make up my mind as to which is the lesser evil so play things by ear. You'll also have noticed that most of these foundations swatch as neutral-hyphen-something, and on my pale neutral-neutral skin, that something tends to translate as visibly jaundiced or flushed face vs. neck/chest/rest of me. I like a cool purple mixer to correct yellow tones without adding warm pink ones, and a neutral blue to take too-pink/peach formulas down a notch. No artist, I'm not sure why green mixers are always an epic fail on me, but they either make shades muddy or just look...visibly green. 
GLOW+COLOUR: A trio from Rouge Bunny Rouge: Sea of Clouds is a neutral white light-scatterer with no arrant silver robot sheen, while Sea of Tranquility is an opalescent pink that doesn't register as colour so much as magically harmonise warmer looks on me. The liquid bronzer As If It Were Summer Still is bottled sunshine, rather than a suntan, light and yellow enough (rather than brown) to work even on ultra pale skin.
COLOUR-CORRECTORS: Kryolan Ultra Fluid Foundation Blue (a thin sky-blue liquid), Suki CC Cream 02 Whitening (a very pale lilac cream that lightens as well as correcting yellow), and Barry M Foundation Crème in White -- a thick yet blendable white cream that works well with the foundation formulas I favour -- it's so pigmented only a tiny dot is needed to lighten without messing with the formula/finish of foundations, unlike Mac F&B White which I used to pour in by the bottleful.

Heavy swatches:



PS a clarification: the foundations featured in this post aren't recommendations, unless you happen to be my exact skintwin both in tone and type. Formula-wise I can rattle off about two dozen superior ones to these off the top of my head, with more elegant finishes and ease of application -- sadly, I'm just too bloody pale for them and find 'lifting' more than one shade with a mixer creates a hot mess.
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