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Les Merveilleuses Ladurée Cream Cheek Base 102

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Older readers will know that my favourite blush colour is red, and in general I operate under the unspoken assumption that brighter is always better. The fevered macaque-butted clown-harlot aesthetic, y'know.

But! To balance that obsession is its kind-of opposite (doin' my bit for cosmic balance), my perennial hunt for pastel blushes that actually look pastel on my pasty skin. [Some shades often called pastel, chalky even, which are mid-tones on me: Illamasqua Katie, Benefit Georgia/Dandelion, Shu M 225, Mac Well Dressed, Fyrinnae Seduce, Nars Sex Appeal....] Having finally found a lavender-pink pale and cool enough to read as unspeakably hideously chalky to most / deliciously editorially chalky to me in Dainty Doll's Hippy Hippy Shake [better pics here], I've stepped up my efforts to find her a peachy sister.

Ladurée released two limited edition shades of its cream cheek base this spring, one of which seemed the truly-pastel peach of my dreams, and corrupted aided by So Lonely In Gorgeous, I managed to acquire a delicious macaron creme egg in shade 102:
PEEEEEEEACH!
Now the packaging is truly, stupendously, excessively hideous. My pictures can't convey just how ungainly and (though I hate this word) tacky the whole thing is -- it takes an act of evil genius to engineer something at once flimsy and clunky.
must work out how to depot. now.
In formula, like the Ladurée pressed powder blush I tried last year, this cream is quite dry, though thankfully not drying. The best way to apply is, as Ladurée themselves recommend, to draw on your face straight from the egg and then blend out with fingers or a brush -- it is very difficult to pick up any colour from the egg with a brush (however dense), and to pick up pigment evenly is almost impossible. Once on the skin, the high-silicone, silky-matte feel makes it easy to work with, much like a finely milled, silky powder blush (e.g. Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry), it's a snap to get a smoothly blended, unpatchy result. I do think that it'll get trickier to lay down more directional shapes once the dome wears down, but we'll see... update you in 5 years, mmmkay?

Because despite its high-whimsy stylings this blush is impressively pigmented. The right swatch is one swipe from the egg, and the left is the same, but blended out -- see how far it goes?

Once blended out, the strong white base on which this peachy pink sits also becomes dispersed so that the shade remains a pastel even on my pale skin, while never looking chalky / sitting too flatly on top of my clear colouring. (Grace has the best breakdown of this distinction here.)

More practically, blending also disperses the sparse white-gold glitter running through 102, making each speck easier to pick out :P Obviously zero shimmer is best for me (no catching on my dry skin), but large/sparse flecks I can work with, while fine/dense glitter presents more of a problem, hence my issues with Chanel Notorious or Tom Ford Narcissist.

Still not ideal, but as this Ladurée shade so perfectly fills a niche in my blush wardrobe, I'll live with it for now. Comparison with some peaches and pinks (since this is so well balanced in between):

Dolce & Gabbana Nude and Provocative
Shu Uemura M520 (Colour Atelier) and Sakura (limited edition Spring 2006)
Becca Guava and Lychee beach tints 
Illamasqua Rude cream blush
RMS Beauty Smile lip2cheek


The main thing to note is my tendency to acquire peach/pink pairs from the same lines 102's unusual bright-pastel effect, making most of the other shades appear dusty or ruddy in comparison, and Becca Lychee almost neon.


Look 1: White
A wash of whites on the eye for maximum exaggeration if 102's unique bright-pastel base: Kiko long-lasting eyeshadow stick 01 Pearly White [swatch], the white satin from Suqqu 09 Koju (discontinued, spring 2009), the blue-white from Suqqu EX-12 Hisuidama (limited edition spring 2013 [swatch]), Sugarpill Tako as the most matte and pigmented white to 'shade' the upper lashline, and GOSH white kohl on the waterline.
To stop my eyes from disappearing altogether under this blanket of snow, I ran Rouge Bunny Rouge Sweet Dust Seriema under the lower lashline and very, very lightly through the socket.

Lips: YSL Glossy Stain 27 Peche Cerra Cola
Cheeks: Laudree 102, duh, in a circular, apples of the cheek placement
Highlight: More white, courtesy of Shiseido High Beam White through the centre of the face


Look 2: Grey
A more wearable modulation of the white-out eye -- Suqqu's grey-based purple quad 10 Sakuragi (discontinued, spring 2009) in a soft vertical gradation on the eyes, paired with a more 'natural' blush placement for me: placed on the apples and blended up and out along the cheekbone. The lip is another limited edition Suqqu (Noble Nuance lipstick EX-03 Shumomo from spring 2010), which shares Ladurée 102's bright-pastel peachy-pinkness.


Look 3: Brights
To show that this blush can also function as an unobtrusive neutral/balancing element tying a bold lip and eye together, I've paired it with Shu Uemura Smoky Velvet (LE Christmas 2012, N. American version) and Addiction Le Mépris Lip Crayon. 

This time, I applied the blush very lightly along the lower edge of my cheekbone and blended lightly inwards -- almost like a contour.


Constants: Shu Uemura Underbase Cream Pink and RBR Sea of Clouds highlighter as base; Shu Uemura Hard 9 Seal Brown brow pencil and Suqqu 02 Brown brow pen; Fasio Full Dynamic Volume mascara BR300.

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