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Drivel In Brief: Before the Booker 2012

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I mentioned a few weeks ago that an offline friend had challenged me to read more contemporary literary fiction. And a few folks had e-poked me to blog more bookish things, which I immediately and enthusiastically began putting off, and putting off... until now, about an hour before the announcement of the winner of the Booker prize 2012, which is my last chance to SPEW ALL THE THOUGHTS*.

*'thoughts' may be stretching it <---- artistic licence, yo.


So this is kind of cheating because the shortlist came out weeks ago, but even before the longlist was announced I was fairly sure I would be cheering for Hilary Mantel's Bring Up the Bodies.  For stars-aligned-ish reasons: she's one of my favourite novelists (one of the few whose entire varied backlog I've tracked down and devoured); historical fiction is one of my favourite genres and one she particularly excels in (my introduction to Mantel was her richly multifocal French Revolution novel, A Place of Greater Safety and Bring up the Bodies shares that completely unpretentious and consummately precise dense prose style); early modern English history was my academic ghetto; and rehabilitations of historical 'villains' -- especially the practical backroom machiavellian types who, y'know, get shit done -- are another particularly strong literary kink; this book is composed of all those things and it considers them too -- there's nothing I fall for more quickly and more deeply than genuinely profound meta, about stories and histories, and their telling (so metametameta, then :P)
Unfortunately, as a sequel that continues her 2009 Booker-winning Wolf Hall in every way [did I mention I have a soft spot for the middle books of trilogies too?] its literary-qualities-aside chances of winning are about 0.0000000001%. The concluding volume might have a shot in 2016? XD

*EDIT* Mantel WON! :D


My runner-up favourites, which didn't make the shortlist:


Nicola Barker, The Yips -- another favourite writer -- this woman does dialogue and dark comedy (with a capital c and a small c and many a chaotically expletive c) with barmy panache. If you aren't sure she's your thing [though if you can put up with my kind of drivel I suspect you will find her v. readable] Wide Open is probably the best balance of representative and accessible. For me, Darkmans remains her richest offering so far.




Ned Beauman, The Teleportation Accident -- another deranged manic-comic historico-science-fictional satire, with thankfully a bit more heart than I expected. Ware if you hate high style, broad farce and extravert postmodernity. The protagonist is called Loeser and introduced as 'a total prick,' so....no refunds.






My favourite book which did make the shortlist but isn't Mantel's -- the kind of default reasoning that lies behind most Booker winners, as far as I can tell, so it has a proper shot :P -- is Alison Moore's The Lighthouse.
On the face of it, everything I steer clear of: a slim volume heavily freighted with portentous puff about hyumin-naychure-troofs-thereof on the back, whose action, such as it is, mostly consists of internal emotional involute-ish tangles, all in minimalist prose and a wide-spaced font. It is very much the typical lit fic piece I would never have bothered with were it not for Teh Challenge, and it's absolutely bloody brilliant. I finished it at 3am, emotionally shattered and philosophically shaken, and flipped right back to the beginning again. If there's one book you should try from this list, this is it. Especially if you like perfume.



The rest of the shortlist I would not back FOR REASONS:


Deborah Levy, Swimming Home -- this straddled Rachel Joyce's Harold Fry and Moore's Lighthouse and for me; while it highlighted the creaking of the plot and slightly hollow overreaching in the former, it was just totally outclassed by the latter, appearing slight and conventional in its turn. I did find all three about equally (and surprisingly) easy and pleasurable reads -- totally not taking 'difficulty' as a guarantee of depth here.



Which is why I can't really drivel about the current frontrunner, Will Self's Umbrella, the only book on this list I didn't finish. Because copious amounts of alcohol and a new lipstick were required to bribe me through the first 100 and the last 3 pages [personal rule] of this naked-imperial bollocks. At least I have a topical new example of 'not a book to be lightly tossed aside but flung with great force' (preferably via canon at end of ten-foot bargepole, aimed at deepest darkest crevasse on earth).





Jeet Thayil, Narcopolis -- a technically brilliant writing exercise (first novel from a poet), which is as much its weakness as strength for me -- too composed. Still worth it for the ride, even if heady hallucinatory underbelly trips aren't usually up your literary alley.




Tan Twan Eng, The Garden of Evening Mists was probably my biggest disappointment. I mean, I knew I hated Will Self going in, but I had heard such brilliant things about this writer and this book's setting (WWII to present day Malaya) and themes come only second to Thomas Cromwell in closeness to my heart. The contents are fascinating -- I've already recommended it to a few poco friends who've enjoyed it far more than I did; for most readers of this blog I think the diversions into the aesthetic discourses of Japanese gardens and tattooing would be v. appealing -- they were by far my favourite aspects of this book too. Sadly, the prose. It is clunky. Clunky like BL Gobsmacked is gloopy and Illamasqua powders are powdery: at times the tone-deafness achieves a kind of awe-inspiring platonic quintessence of clunk.




Rest of the longlisted-onlies: 


Michael Frayn, Skios -- because I'm a tricksy fox like that, here's a writer, a genre (farce) and settings (Greece, cultural institutions) I love....and a resounding meh of a book. There are mistaken identities and bed tricks and a plot that runs entirely on bad puns and two twin cab drivers called Spiros and Stavros. Sometimes even the lemoniest souffles will fall :(






Rachel Joyce, The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry -- as mentioned above, likeable but just too slight, too neat, too Radio 4 (sorry, cheap shot -- and to be fair I can't do my makeup without R4 on). I have a feeling this might appeal to those who liked the concept of J.K. Rowling's Casual Vacancy but found it a bit...unremitting.






André Brink, Philida -- another book I would've read even without the litfic challenge, and would still recommend to most, but with some warnings I wish I'd've been given: while compelling and engaging and with some nice prosing, this is closer to The Help populism than to Coetzee-calibre artistry. And even the witty knitting metaphors (!) couldn't mask the sudden fizzling-out of story towards the end.




Sam Thompson, Communion Town has a totally-my-thing concept and a lot of good, just showoffy enough but not obnoxiouslyWillSelfish prose ventriloquism going on. But it aint no novel, it's most definitely a short story collection. In the longlist it sits closest to The Teleportation Accident, and despite the chaotic exuberance of that, it's Communion Town that left me (me!) calling for a bit more restraint. A bit more selective editing, perhaps? Good lord, this litfic stuff does broaden one's mind. But I maintain that many 'proper' (okay, marketed-as) spec-fic writers have done this kind of thing already, and done it better. In the 15 seconds before the winner announcement: Catherynne Valente, Jeff VanDerMeer, China Miéville, Michael Moorcook, Brian Aldiss....



Yeah, 'in brief' was really stretching it. Cookies for anyone who made it this far :D Have you read any of these or do you plan to? Any recs for more? (I'm about done with the Orange prize longlist now.) Or spiny fish you'd like to slap me with for dissing your homeboy Will. etc.

Je Joue

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Post title is le fromage. Sorry.

Jouer offers a new spin on the Laura Mercier / Trish McEvoy / Bobbi Brown / Burberry nexus of flattering, understated, polished makeup, but with this USP: superiortextures. And another: lego packaging.

During the recent cultbeauty 25% off sale I acquired a Dahlia tint to slot onto the lonely Amaretto powder eyeshadow an American MUAer sent me last year.
nifty or nifty?

Amaretto is a pigmented-yet-delicate, silky smooth powder: it can be washed sheerly onto the lid with a fluffy brush as a subtle shimmer or built up on a densely packed paddle or liner brush for a more creamily metallic effect. The colour is a balanced taupey bronze with a cool plummy undercurrent -- a cooler, less-yellow version of Burberry Midnight Brown. Texturally it's closest to old-school (i.e. good) Stila -- digging in results in a little powder kick-up but no chalkiness once applied -- and its kind of delicate shimmer is as flattering as a Kanebo brand's on hooded or mature lids.

Dahlia is a clear berry in a gel-cream formula. I expected more of a stain from the name 'tint', but this formula turned out to be non-setting, dewy and semi-translucent one, more like a potted tinted balm (Fresh) or jelly lipstick (Guerlain Rouge Auto etc.) than either a liquid stain (Beauté) or conventional cream blush (Illamasqua, Becca, Bobbi Brown etc.) Like a tinted lipbalm, this needs touching up after drinks and meals on me, and wiped off easily with one swipe of a tissue. On my dry cheeks, it felt comfortable all day and while remaining dewy, didn't slide around or fade.


Swatches
natural light
Dahlia sheered out (with fingers) and built up (Hakuhodo Misako lipbrush) // One swipe of Amaretto with Suqqu M brush.


As my skin is pretty good right now, I went base-free (except for a dab of Burberry concealer 01 under eyes) to play up the modern English rosiness of these colours and textures:
I swear there's no extra shading -- Amaretto is one of those catches-the-light differently shades which look more complex once worn on the contours of the eye.

Other products:
Browlash EX Natural Brown pencil through brows
RBR Automatic Eye Pencil Salome to line
GOSH White Kohl on waterline
last gasp of Fasio Ultra Curl Lock Volume mascara


So simple I'm embarrassed to show you close-ups
RBR Salome and Jouer Amaretto
Jouer Dahlia on lips -- no balm under or over, all the dewiness is its own 

It's not often my makeup takes under five minutes these days so I had time for some bonus shots, of my outfit -- the long sludgy cable jumper I made in April but recently re-buttoned, paired with a Markus Lupfer gold sequinned miniskirt (AW 2011).

Out of shot: lacy burgundy tights and my latest shoe love, these clumpy Clarks (apologies to MUAers who've seen these a bazillionty times already):

Matchy-matchy mani with Zoya Paloma, a clear berry jelly. And a closer look at the buttons :D They're wood and look like tiny tree trunk cross-sections... slightly cross-eyed ones. The buttons and me. I take this coordination thing very seriously.
washed-out bathroom lighting, sorry

Have you tried anything from Jouer? Thoughts and recommendations much appreciated :) I feel like this is a niche brand that was building buzz a few years ago but then faded away into the background.

Skincare Old and New

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I don't blog much about skincare because my routine doesn't change much; I've even dropped the monthly 'empties' posts which other bloggers do so well, since I tend to use up and repurchase the same old products over and over.

But since the last round-up in February (main routine // supplementary), I have actually replaced a few products with new loves, as well as reaffirming my devotion to other staples. So here goes:


1. LOTION

During my Asia trip earlier this year, I tried out a few new new lotions (moisturising toners), hoping to find a replacement for the Hada-Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion [ingredients] which has been a daily staple for the last five years. Because with the growing popularity of Japanese beauty brands, it's so often out of stock on adambeauty (most reasonably-priced etailer for me) when I want to repurchase, and also because I'm stupid curious! like that.
The best of a meh-to-bad bunch (from GWP samples from RMK, Lunasol, Fancl etc. to drugstore brands like Naruko and Shiseido Senka):

  • Hada-Labo ES Lotion turned out to be far too watery (so difficult to apply with hands) and not moisturising enough, even for the humid Hong Kong summer. ES [Enjoy Skincare] is a new sub-brand from Rohto Hada-Labo, slightly cheaper [170ml retails for ¥1100 while my regular Hada-Labo lotion goes for ¥1260] and aimed at very sensitive skin; its products are free of fragrance, alcohol, mineral oil and parabens and did not irritate my skin at all. None of them impressed me either -- this is a good line to try for those with oily-normal skin and very minimal requirements.
  • White Formula Super Moist Toner is, despite the Japanese language packaging, from a Taiwanese brand made in Taiwan [forgot the retail, but definitely under £10 for 290ml]. Like many other Taiwanese toners, its has a viscous gel texture rather than the 'enriched water' of my regular Hada-Labo, which feels sticky going on (not a dealbreaker) and can also ball up under my other skincare/makeup layers (dealbreaker). Despite the stickier feel, it actually seems a bit less effective at hydrating my skin than old reliable; finally, a reminder that unscented =/= scent-free, this has a strong synthetic-metallic smell.
White Formula Super Moist Toner ingredients


2. OIL
As the very last step in my nighttime routine, I use a few drops of oil to seal in all the other layers. Left to my own devices, it would be a cheap health food store option like Desert Essence Jojoba (emptied) or a rosehip / almond / avocado variation. Sometimes I receive posher branded oils as presents (from friends not PR) like DHC Extra Virgin Olive Oil (emptied) for Christmas, which has a far nicer texture (genuinely dry/weightless -- even lighter than neat jojoba or rosehip in feel) and packaging, but wasn't so superior that I'd be tempted to repurchase for myself.
However, the REN Omega 3 Night Repair Serum (a birthday present I've been using for the last three months) leaves my skin so soft-glowy-happy in the mornings I'm seriously thinking of shelling out the £34 for another bottle of (fishyapricot-stinking) magic when I'm done. Note that this is much 'oilier' in feel than the DHC or most neat oils, and may not be suitable for the breakout-prone; it is marketed as plumping and barrier repair for dry/sensitive skin and surprisingly does exactly that for me.
REN Omega 3 Night Repair Serum ingredients


3. EYE CREAM
Finally -- and I mean after four years and a hundred others FINALLY -- I have found a replacement for the heinously expensive Sisley Sisleya Global Eye and Lip Contour Cream (UK retail £105; I usually purchase for £85ish at Duty Free). In fact, I like Korres Materia Herba Eye Cream (comparatively much more reasonable £30 for the same 15ml as Sisley) even better, as it visiblyfaded my hereditary undereye pigmentation, so that Burberry's light click pen is now all I need to cover the bruise-y sleep-deprivation-type circles, no separate corrector necessary. 
As for the rest of my eyecream requirements, Korres is on par with Sisley at: depuffing, keeping my very dry undereyes moisturised all day, being light enough to smooth on without tugging [my issue with some thicker balms], sinking in instantly, sitting beautiful under makeup, excess working well as a lip balm etc. 
I've been using this since May (onto my second tube now -- the first lasted about four months) but held off on the review until I could be sure the circle-fading thing wasn't just a quirk, and that it would still be rich enough for my skin in London. It isn't, and it is. LOVE.



4. EMERGENCIES
After an entire tube of La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B-5 [ingredients], my first impressions were pretty much confirmed -- this is a waxier matte-finish cream which is harder to spread onto my dry skin than Avene's creamier Cicalfate [ingredients]. Even in East Asian summer humidity, the LRP wasn't sufficiently moisturising for me to wear overnight, and its drier feel didn't layer as easily as Avene would with additional products -- which made it a tricky proposition under makeup [again perhaps because I favour creamier textures there too]. Both products did speed up my skin's healing time, but I felt Avene addressed the flakiness that inevitably accompanies barrier-damage better.



5. SUNSCREEN
Now let the angelic chorus swell once more, for I have finally found a zinc-based sunscreen that doesn't dry me out OR leave me tin-mannishly shiny to layer over my all-chemical Ducray Melascreen SPF50. High-maintenance, much? Yeah, but this was my bare face in June, right before I started layering; and here it is after five months of layering. Okay, freckles do darken in summer but I promise you many of the smaller ones, which I've had for years, have completely gone and the rest have faded significantly.
I recognise that wearing one sunscreen daily might be too much for some skins, let alone two -- but if you can find formulas to work for you (and whose filters don't interfere with each other) I would wholeheartedly recommend it, especially if, like me, you don't reapply sun protection every two hours throughout the day. The Ducray provides high-UVA chemical protection (from octinoxate, Tinsorbs M and S) while the BurnOut gives sustained physical protection (zinc is the most stable filter) -- neither on its own would be quite ideal, but together: Dream Team.

Burn-Out Ocean Tested SPF30+ ($17.99 for 100ml) contains 18.6% zinc oxide in a no-frills formula [ingredients] which is the most cosmetically elegant all-physical I've tried -- "cosmetically elegant" in sunscreen reviews often seems to mean "MATTE / oil-controlling" but as you all know, I love me some dew and I hate me some itching and flaking skin -- what I mean is that it is a light gel-cream texture that glides effortlessly over the skin, setting to a soft satiny finish with no rubbing in or waiting time required. Cosmetics layered over this do not ball up or 'stick', and I can take the cream right up to my lashline and around my mouth without any irritation, stinging, or interference with my fun: eyeshadow or lipstick.

BurnOut retails replaces Kiss Me Sunkiller Baby Milk SPF38, which has been reformulated and renamed as Kids UV SPF38 [ingredients and info]. The older version was my favourite Japanese milk sunscreen for years, a rare alcohol-free all-physical formula (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) but I found the newer one too matte and too drying -- even without alcohol, and layered over a hefty coat of Ducray, I find physical filters quite drying -- my skin would start itching by lunchtime and flaking after a few days' sustained use. I also prefer the ease of cream/gel formulas to ultra-runny milks.



But some things one can only get in Asia. Sickeningly cute Bioderma Crealine set, anyone? :D

Prestigious Preview

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The adjective is very much not mine, it's Karl Lagerfeld's. And the only thing to mar my latest, and favouritest, purchase: Shu Uemura Mon Shu Girl Prestigious Bordeaux Palette.

Proper swatches etc. to come as London smog is being very uncooperative at the moment. I just wanted to share the squee today, in my fading light :)
c'est Dora the Explorer Mon Shu Girl
natural light, setting sun
natural light, setting sun, intentional fuzziness
flash
flash + fuzz

The texture of the top two shades in particular are simply divine -- intense, molten pigment. The middle two are silkier: one shimmer, one satin. Bottom left pan is a Glitter shade akin to the newer ones released this summer, and bottom right is a satiny-smooth, very pigmented blush [ignore the glitter, that's pollution].

For inquiring minds: this is what Mon Shu Girl looks like after dark

Er... so.... anyone depotted one of these Shu palettes? Any tips?

The Shu Uemura x Karl Lagerfeld collection is out right now in the UK. Both palettes are limited edition and retail for £45 each.

Swatches at Rouge Deluxe and Beautyezine.

Closer Look: Becca Lychee and Dragonfruit Beach Tint

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So I succumbed to two of the three new Beach Tint shades... Lychee will replace Nars Gaiety and Dragonfruit the Sleek Pumpkin Blush by 3 trio in my wardrobe.
natural light, full sun *sob* 
Shown in context of some other Beach Tints here, this is how they sit against the other shades I own:
natural light


Don't they round things out nicely? :D Evidently I am a big fan of the Beach Tint formula (have been for years) -- while matte and genuinely waterproof/tenacious, they sit comfortably on my dry lips and cheeks, and the revolting synthetic fruity scents remain psychological irritants, never physical ones.

That said, Dragonfruit is a noticeable improvement on the formula of the other Beach Tints -- less watery, more pigmented and even more smoothly blendable [in practice -- for some reasons these are tricky to swatch in stripes]. I hope you can kind of tell by how well its blob holds together / clings to my arm, compared with the others above. It's also very much my kind of colour. Seriously:
Rouge Bunny Rouge Florita
Becca Watermelon
Becca Dragonfruit
Addiction Revenge Cheek Stick
Besamé Crimson Cream Rouge
Shu Uemura P Red 14 (2nd gen, discontinued)


On the other hand, Lychee is more of a departure -- I've swatched it against the two closest pinks in my stash, and it's so conspicuously different from both that I whacked on my other two Beach Tints (a light one and a cool one) to set off its lightness and coolness further.
Illamasqua Katie
Addiction Amazing Cheek Stick
Becca Lychee
Guava
Raspberry


Now, in practice on both lips and cheeks! Because I think I've just about spammed you with enough swatches while disclaiming that these don't swatch very well....

Dragonfruit


Lychee

Eyes: lazy haze of Becca eyeshadows in Chiffon, Bouclé and Lamé. L'Oreal Telescopic False Lash Waterproof mascara.
Basics: Burberry Sheer Touch Concealer 01 under eyes, Browlash EX Natural Brown pencil through brows, Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Clouds to bedew.

Apologise for slightly fat lip....sometimes I wake up with those :/ The Mystery of the Sleepwalking Snacker.

For extrapolation, this is what some other Beach Tints look like on me: GuavaWatermelon (scroll down to looks 3/4) and Raspberry.

Autumn/Winter 2012 Wardrobe: Purchases

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To those...three(? I think?) of you who liked outfit pics, apologies for the recent lack. I no longer have the just-right expanse of evenly lit cream wall I did in Hong Kong.... Not that this will stop me from posting them >:D They will just be scrappier, so I thought it'd be an idea to show you the clothes in neutral facing-to-camera conditions. Also as a personal record thingy for me. Also, it's laundry day and I'm waiting for the tub to fill, so clicketysnap.

PURCHASES
While I no longer stick strictly to a one-a-month clothes diet, doing so for years has so refined my closet (okay, it mainly reinforced my pickiness) that I now quite naturally apply a one-in-one-out system of replacement buying. Therefore, these do not in any way constitute a 'capsule' wardrobe.

Clarks black ankle boots are a straightforward swap for my clapped-out black Victoriana lace-up booties from 2008, while the Topshop Boutique leather jacket updates a much girlier collarless Armani version from twelve years ago. The tan riding boots are something I've been searching for for a few years -- I never expected it to be so difficult to find just the right pair of flat, mid-tone yellow-brown ones that weren't shapeless pull-ons, but weren't prissily fitted either -- eventually it was Duo Boots (good Italian leather, custom calf sizes and a local fitting room!) who came to my rescue.



Most of my bought-new clothing comes from high street shop COS, which is one of the few...actually pretty much the only one that offers natural fibres, clever design, quality construction and legit high-street prices [i.e. not £100+ Whistles blouses, lovely though they are]. This season, I chose a filmy, drapey, funnel-neck ivory silkshell, and a silk/cotton print shirt offsetting romantically murky tones with a boxy mannish shape and (signature COS this) small collar -- ridiculously versatile wardrobe staples both.
The navy spotted collared blouse comes from UK brand Oasis, which has been undergoing a wee renaissance in the last few seasons -- this is a great example (triple collar, whimsical print, gold buttons up the back) of their retro girly chic. It is 100% polyester, but a reasonably 'good' poly, which I'd take any day over a cheap silk or flimsy viscose. [It helps that Oasis have frequent -- it sometimes seems weekly -- offers of 20%-30% on a rotating selection of items, as well as the usual seasonal sales and discounts on asos et al. I don't think any of their stuff is worth full price, but slashed down to the lower end of the high street, they are very reasonable.]
Some designer bargains: I rescued this black, cowl-necked Nicole Farhi fine knit pullover from a Selfridges sold-as-seen bin for £19.99. Darned the tiny hole at the edge of the left cuff with some cobweb cashmere, and am now wearing it to death, sometimes back to front (there's a lovely crossover detail at the back). The wool midi skirt is by Celine(!) and a rare £25 charity shop steal [Londoners will know just how rare], in the most luxuriant tightly woven wool, lined in silk. It weighs more than anything else in my wardrobe, including coats, and is faultlessly sturdy -- I would eyeball this as early '90s(? do we think?) and the outside looks brand new.
The leather skirt is a proper indulgence, from T by Alexander Wang (well... Liberty's 20% off £a lot is still £a lot) but in exquisitely soft leather, and again exactly what I had been looking for to replace a burgundy pencil skirt that had finally given up the ghost after ten autumns.



The hardest part of a clothing diet for me has always been dresses. I treat shoes as primarily functional, always neglect jewellery, skimp on the skimpy lingerie thing, and my heart rate is entirely unaffected by bags... but my insatiable appetite for dresses pretty much cancels out any money I might have saved on the other fripperies combined.
I have been suspiciously restrained this year, which may yet end in a boxing day sale binge.... The long-sleeved silk print dress from Comptoir des Cotonniers was a sensible planned purchase to replace an embroidered tunic [technically kameez] from Pakistan which had developed an endearing habit of raining beads in its dotage.
The COS (again) ombre shift dress (a sheer layer over a more solid linen underdress, with a giant stonking white zip all the way up the back :D) recently went on sale and dragged me off the wagon. Some of you might remember my pinning this after trying it on in May, congratulating myself for not buying another dress XD


These pieces might seem entirely 'autumnal', because for colder winter days I just add more and thicker layers (silk slips, thermal polonecks and tanks from Uniqlo, merino tights) and having bought a coat last winter, won't need to shop for one again for a good few years. The rest, of course, is knitwear -- which I mostly make myself, of which more in part 2.

Holiday 2012 Swatches: Suqqu, Shu, Guerlain

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SUQQU FLOWER BOUQUET COLLECTION
Two coffrets, each containing a limited edition Blend Eyeshadow palette, a Mascara Volume Long N 01 (black, 4g) and travel sizes of Reset Cleansing Cream and Refining Foam. They are released on November 2nd in the UK and will retail for £58.

Makeup Kit A comes with a blingy silver pouch and a pinky-brown palette, EX-09 Momoawayuki 桃淡雪.


Makeup Kit B has a gold-toned pouch and palette, EX-10 Hikarikonayuki 光粉雪.

Both palettes are warm brown variations, and include five powder shadows:
          very pigmented satin liner (bottom left)
          pigmented metallic (top left)
          very pigmented shimmery metallic (top right)
          split pan with a lavender satin and an ivory matte (bottom right)
Overall they felt more opaque than Suqqu's usual shadows -- while imbued with the brand's signature ultrafine iridescent sparkle, these powders seemed to have a denser, heavier base. The rich, almost-creamy textures would appeal to fans of the newer Suqqu textures (showcased in quads 09-11).
   

EX-09 Momoawayuki

EX-10 Hikarikonayuki


Swatches with EX-09 on top and EX-10 on the bottom row. Each swatch was patted on with sponge applicators as usual onto bare skin, and I skipped the right sides of the split pans.
The first (natural light) picture is most colour-accurate -- there is a really interesting cool plum note in the deepest shade of EX-10 contrasting with the lush golds. The brighter pictures are to give a better idea of the textures.


SHU UEMURA PRESTIGIOUS BORDEAUX AND GUERLAIN TURANDOT / LIU
While playing with the various Holiday collections today, I noticed a predominance of reddish, rusty brown tones and denser, heavier textures. One element on its own I can usually swing, in what is hopefully fetchingly consumptive fashion (ahem), but the two in combination tend to wear me. 
A makeupalley pal wondered whether Shu Uemura's Prestigious Bordeaux palette stood out enough from the velvet crowd, and my considered answer is, "Yes, yes, a million times yes". 

TOP: Prestigious Bordeaux, with the blush pan swatched above the shadows
MIDDLE: Guerlain Turandot quad
BOTTOM: Guelain Liu palette shadows 


SHU UEMURA X KARL LAGERFELD SMOKEY VELVET



SHU UEMURA X KARL LAGERFELD LIPSTICKS
These were very sheer and balmy -- my swatches are 3 layers each. They never 'set' and retained a glossy translucency even after a few hours on my hand.
Parisienne Pink, Celebrity Beige, Mon Shu Red, Luxe Burgundy

SHU UEMURA X KARL LAGERFELD PAINTING LINER
Aptly named Black Purple Satin, this felt creamier and more pigmented than the usual Shu Painting Liners. A rich neutral purple resting on a more reddened purple base, this has very fine warm red and copper microshimmer which is only visible with flash. Used to draw a fine line, this read as a dark purple (rather than black) satin on me.

Matte on Matte FOTD

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Hmm, drop an E or two and that title might attract a different crowd....

Anyway, belated Becca Raspberry look, paired with an all-matte daytime smokey eye courtesy of my beloved Rouge Bunny Rouge...s. Rouge Bunnies Rouge?

Consisting of:
Automatic Pencil in Salome to line
Blackpepper Jay closest to the lashline,
Sweet Dust Seriema above that, fading into
Chestnut-Napped Apalis,
and edges blended with Bashful Flamingo 

With Becca Raspberry Beach Tint on lips and cheeks:

Other products: 
Burberry Sheer Concealer 01 under eyes
L'Oreal False Lash Telescopic WP mascara
Browlash EX Natural Brown pencil through brows


Note on Beach Tint application:
  1. Shake it like a polaroid picture.
  2. Squeeze out a risotto-rice-grain-sized blob onto each cheek, and on to centres of upper and lower lip.
  3. Do eye makeup.
  4. Blend out the cheek blobs with Illamasqua Highlighter brush, and either add a little extra dot as needed OR sheer out edges further with a clean synthetic foundation brush.
  5. Work the lip-blobs into the lips in an even, thin layer using any handy clean lipbrush. Allow to set without smooshing lips together. If needed, add another thin layer over the top of the first and/or clean up edges with concealer brush.

New and Notorious

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N.B. I've added the rest of my Shu Uemura holiday swatches to the earlier post, so please hop over if you want to see the other palette, lipsticks and liner.

This is a very similar look to yesterday's, but with glossy textures instead of mattes -- I've been in a bit of a neutral-eye-rosy/berry-lip rut of late, and am going to post this right on the heels of the last both to illustrate said rut [er...again], and also because people have asked to see the specific products I used in action.

Because two are new and shiny:
Lunasol Sheer Glossy Eyes EX-01 Nuance Grey (limited edition)

and YSL Glossy Stain #25 Fuchsia Neo-Classic, one of the six new shades (swatched by Rouge Deluxe)


....and t'other is Notorious. Aka Chanel's Joue Zombie. Recently Miss Lizzie of Glossed in Translation has complained that pigments look unrealistically pretty on my skin...well I call LIES because this powder looks so much better on her. As on Xiao of Messy Wands.
There may be a future blogpost in this if/when I acquire actual Knowledges, but it does seem to be true that my skin is some kind of cosmetic Switzerland, dry, clear and neutral, on which the vast majority of colours and textures read true.
if you can't see the shimmer, click to enlarge
See that microshimmer in the pan? It's very fine, but my, it's plentiful. Every rave blog review has sworn it doesn't translate onto their skin; well, it shows up clearly on mine. Even if you don't share my personal bias against visible shimmer in face products, I think it's pretty widely accepted as a bad plan to have face contour that sparkles like a tinsel-miniskirted starlet desperate for attention...

The other major selling point of this Joue Contraste [uh, assuming we are bein Rational Consumers and putting aside stuff like "new thing" or "limited edition zomg" or "TAUPE"] is the colour: a warm grey. About which I have no bad things to say. A too-cool grey would really read as zombielicious on most, a too-warm taupe would easily tip into orange territory for those of us who already find shadowing shades tricky to shop for; this is an excellent balance, and in Chanel's dryish, sheerish, blendable powder, relatively beginner-friendly.

Here it is against some of my other contouring options:
Burberry Earthy (original review)
Catrice Starlight Espresso and Grey's Philosophy (original swatches), which I mix together
Illamasqua Primal (discontinued holy grail D:)
natural light, shade
Okay, obviously Earthy no longer works on me now that my tan has faded and I'm back in cold London winter light :P Texture-wise, Notorious is the only product to make my arm look were-hairy and patchy and freakishly goose-pimply. And that, my friends, is what a dry texture and visible shimmer does to my dry skin.

To make the Chanel shimmer, visible to my naked eye, register on camera, I used flash:
dark room, direct flash

and cunning angling:
natural light, indirect sun
...so I hope you can see what I mean. Because I nearly fell down the stairs getting that last shot.

Sure, it's not Nars-Multiple obvious. I don't think most people would register it as shimmer, they'd probably just think I was rocking some killer porous sideburns with that red lipstick.... But it bugs me. A lot. And I can get a similar shade by mixing 6Euros' worth of eyeshadows with a finer texture, when my beloved Illamasqua finally runs out :'( Which is possibly kind of never, because despite meaning to get all skilled and stuff, I hardly ever bother to contour, so don't improve, so rarely bother....

In case the subtext isn't coming across clearly: despite all this, I STILL WANT THE DAMN ZOMBIE BLUSH. It looks awesome as eyeshadow. Also, TAUPE.

Chanel Notorious under cheekbones and on eyes (outer v and socket), unblended

Blended....ish. I rarely contour, okay.

EYES Lunasol Sheer Glossy Eyes EX01 Nuance Grey over lid and onto lower lashline -- please note this is layered underneath Notoriouson my outer v, pulling it greyer. Notorious is on its own in my socket, and looks more taupe, as it does under my cheekbone. L'Oreal Telescopic False Lash WP mascara. GOSH White eye kohl.
LIPS YSL Glossy Stain 25 Fuchsia Neo-Classic (2 coats)
CHEEKS Kjaer Weiss Cream Blush Lovely
BASICS Laura Mercier Silk Cream Soft Ivory mixed with Yuki CC Cream Purple, Burberry Concealer 01. Browlash EX Natural Brown brow pencil.

Boring look is boring :P This is about the products, remember?

More boring things:
Nuance Grey was a present from a lovely friend.
Notorious was a temporary loan from another delicious friend.
Fuchsia Neo-Classic was an actual purchase, thanks to the SA who put these out early by mistake :P

Flappy Halloween

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This is very small beer compared to the plight of those in Sandyland -- may you and your loved ones stay safe, warm and online -- but my personal woecake is that I'm spending Halloween at home this year D: owing a little bit to inclement weather but mostly to incompetent friends who couldn't throw a party if they had a Fisher Price grenade launcher. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE.

Although the grumpy old woman within me is secretly kind of glad since a) it is wet, windy and cold, b) I haz far too many treats and like to stay close for embezzling convenience, and c) getting done up in an ambitious costume is a wee bit less appealing after a long work day than it used to be after a school day....

But Halloween is still my second favourite holiday (obvs Guy Fawkes' is the depotter's holiday) so I cobbled something together in which to open the door, from random bits I had in the closet...

...but mainly from Shu Uemura Prestigious Bordeaux -- oh yes, for we are still in a proper torrid death-shall-not-us-part clinch. (Which is much less scary now that I've freed the delicious pans from Vampire Dora's pernicious grip -- more on that later.)
Pot: Barry M Dazzle Dust 84 Cherry Red
Pans all Shu: Top two and bottom right pans from Prestigious Bordeaux, ME 786, G745
Tubes: Rouge Bunny Rouge Lola automatic eye pencil, Angels' Play eye gloss, YSL Glossy Stain 9 Rouge Lacque

Turban, brooch and pearls are all cheapy charity shop toys.


Inspiration: Moon of My Delight (Henry Clive, 1934) via captainspaceburger


Look


My camera freaked out a bit over all the glitter so I couldn't get a proper eye close-up -- this is the most in-focus eye shot I managed:



PRODUCTS
Angel's Play as base to get a little of that oil-slickness from HC's brushstrokes.
Prestigious Bordeaux purple on the inner and outer v, blended out with ME786, brought higher up at the inner corner for that partly rounded '30s shape.
Lola smudged along lashline and outer v, and blended out with the Prestigious Bordeaux bronze.
Lower lashline: PB bronze from outside in and ME786 from the inside out.
Dab of Cherry Red in inner corner, and G745 on centre of mobile lid.
PB red blush on the very upper edge of cheekbones.
Rouge Lacque on lips (1 coat).


Obviously I didn't bother with period brows or falsies :P So just used my usual Browlash EX Natural Brown pencil to curve the ends of my brows down a bit more, and L'Oreal Telescopic False Lash WP mascara applied at an angle to pull my lashes towards the outer corners.

Base: Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory + Suki CC Cream Purple mix, RBR Sea of Clouds. I skipped undereye concealer because lazy ghoulish!


I may be handing out E-number-filled crap, but be assured I will be regaling all unfortunate children with a lecture on 1920s/30s makeup, which is, like, totally brain food :P

Shu Uemura Prestigious Bordeaux Liberation and Comparisons

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Firstly, darkly depotting Dora. Thanks to a comment from Stephanie, I set to without the aid of heat and was done in all of half a minute. All you need is a sanitised pair of tweezers. :)

1. Push down gently on the metal pan at one corner of your victim cruelly imprisoned pigment longing to be free.


2. The glue is so weak this should tilt the opposite angle up:


3. Pinch that exposed pan edge at the tilted-up corner between your tweezers and pull up and out:


4. Repeat.


These pans are tiny, by the way, two-thirds the size of the Colour Atelier singles.


Comparisons
Random grab-bag of swatches: each pan against the closest / vaguely similar ones in the rest of my collection. Overall I was very pleased to find I didn't really have 'dupes' for any of these colours, and the closest whole palette I own to this -- THREE 4D Eye Palette in 04 Art of Parties -- isn't very similar at all.


On to the single comparisons!

Top Left (Purple)
natural light, full sun
Fyrinnae Cuddlefish and Shinigami
Prestigious Bordeaux
Sonia Rykiel Mousse Eyeshadow 04 (also swatched here)
Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Illusoire
Paul&Joe Eye Gloss Duo B 03 Depth (limited edition)
THREE Flash Performance Liner 04 Eye Belong (also here


Top Right (Bronze)
Rouge Bunny Rouge Automatic Pencil Lola (also here)
Fyrinnae STFU
Prestigious Bordeaux
Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Ebloui


Middle Left (Pink)
Fyrinnae Cupcake Frosting and Meerkat
Shu Uemura G Pink 135
Suqqu Blend 08 Mizuaoi top left (review/swatch)
Prestigious Bordeaux
KATE Deep Trap Eyes PK-1 far right (also here)
RBR Sleeping Under A Mandarin Tree and Capricious Nightingale


Middle Right (Rosy Brown)
natural light, sunny
RBR Bohemian Waxwing (also here)
Suqqu Blend 07 Komorebi top left
Fyrinnae Kurisumasu!
Prestigious Bordeaux
NYX Jumbo Pencil Yoghurt


Bottom Left (Gold)

Prestigious Bordeaux
RMK SH-01 Shiny Brown Gold
Barry M Dazzle Dust 101 Buff
RBR Sleeping Under A Mandarin Tree and Eaten All the Cherries
Shu Uemura G Orange 251
THREE Shimmering Colour Veil 20 Ziggy
Fyrinnae Rapunzel Had Extensions, Gilded Wings and Bastet



Bottom Right (Red)
natural light, angled
Shiseido RD103 Petal [the most shimmery of all of these]
RBR Florita (also here and here)
Prestigious Bordeaux
Dolce and Gabbana Sole (review)

Seasonal Baking

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Because clearing out picture folders and also autumn fetish. I am quite indifferent about cooking (whaddya mean, I have to do repetitive food prep three times a day just to stay alive?! BORING) but baking, like makeup, is an actual hobby. And one that's perfectly suited to autumn, because while it can be fun to try my hand at finicky French patisserie things or new flavour combinations in ice creams, the kind of baking that gives me most pleasure both in the making and the eating is the more slapdash, homey variety, which pairs best with autumnal elements of fruit and veg, spice and rich, dark sugar.

Some recent acquisitions: Matryoshka nested measuring cups! :D So I can play with all the American recipes on pinterest;
Two books by Dan Lepard, one of my favourite baking writers (see his Guardian columns);
and Scandilicious by Signe Johansen, who seems a lovely, greedy, unpretentious sweetheart [though the recipes themselves have some proofing errors].

Better look at the cups, disassembled



In this post I'll just be showing you some of the especially seasonal stuff I've been nomming. It is of course also fun to make/eat something totally impractically unseasonal to cheer a drear rainy day too... but I think blogposts have word/picture limits.


1. Signe Johansen's Chestnut Cinnamon Buns involves a ridiculously fragrant yeasted spelt and cardamom dough, softened with milk and butter:

Which is, after rising and rolling-out, filled with a crumble of cinnamon, dark sugar, butter and chopped chestnuts:

Cut up into rolls, glazed with egg and sprinkled heavily with demerara sugar (because I like my cinnamon buns to come out with a creme-brulee-ish crust):

SO GOOD. I made fifteen and have no idea how well they'd keep because *burp* (If you are going to make these, I would recommend doubling the quantity of filling -- because SO GOOD -- and cutting the rolls 1" (2.5cm) thick before the second rising.)



2. Another Johansen recipe, this time for spelt bread because I had that posh spelt flour leftover from the buns :P No really, it's very pleasurable working with this stuff, smells so nutty and soothing. And I fancied a change from Dan Lepard's Sour Cream Sandwich Bread (basically a cheat's sourdough, toasts amazingly well) which has become a bit of a recent staple.

And it also used up some leftover treacle from previous failed rye bread experiments. Dammit, anyone have a reliable recipe / tips?

Anyway, this loaf came out gorgeous, and almost rye-breadish. Goes so nicely with cream cheese and smoked trout. Also a very quick riser due to the spelt, despite my arctic kitchen.


3. I found Libby's canned pumpkin at the supermarket! The first time I've found it here for sale (not at some marked-up US-expat shop) and had to try out the Pumpkin Espresso Bread (recipe) which had been taunting me from pinterest. 
the main flavourings: espresso powder, pumpkin puree, light muscovado sugar, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg
[ I don't like cloves] 
After making the cake batter, you sprinkle MOAR sugar/cinnamon/coffee on top

and it comes out with a rich, intensely flavoured crust, and seepy sugary bits beneath and the rest is dense yet light :O~

My only issue with this was that using bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) as per the original recipe gave way too much rise and I could still taste it afterwards; I would try it with baking powder next time... and wonder if Americans can taste baking powder in stuff as being a bit foreign....
Also, I would love to have more pumpkinny recipes to play with so comment please!


4. Finally, a more or less family recipe [which really just means we've been making and tinkering with it so long the original source has been lost to knowledge and is probably someone really obvious like Mary Berry] for spiced courgette and walnut cake.
For which you beat 1 1/4 cups of caster sugar with 1 cup of bland vegetable oil then gradually add three beaten eggs until smooth.
Sift together the dry ingredients (3/4 cup self-raising flour, 1 tsp baking powder, 1 tsp cinnamon, 1 tsp ground ginger, 1/2 tsp salt) and then fold into the other ingredients.
Add 1 cup grated, drained courgettes and 1/2 cup chopped walnuts. Don't overmix.
Tip into a greased, lined 20cm cake tin and bake at 180ºC for 75ish minutes or until the top springs back when pressed.
Icing consists of icing sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest and mascarpone. Played by ear.

Prestigious Bordeaux Looks Part 1

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aka Exploring Dora? The Vampire Dora Diaries? Anyway....

1. I set out to use all six shades in the palette, and kept the overal shape soft-but-defined, in an attempt to translate my current hankerings after 'graphic' makeup into more 'subtle/wearable' for day/work.
Bronze silk smooth shade (top right) all over lid and lower lashline as base.
Pink (middle left) in the inner third of lid and lower lashline.
Rose-brown to (middle right) to deepen/define outer corner.
Purple silk smooth (top left) to upper lashline and outer corner of lower.
Gold glitter (bottom left) dabbed at centre of mobile lid.
[GOSH white kohl on waterline, L'Oreal TFLWP mascara]

With the red blush (bottom right pan) and Suqqu Creamy Glow 6 Umegasumi (swatch/review).



2. A less forced look, built around my favourite pan in the palette, the awesome purple Silk Smooth shadow (top left). Because until my belated contacts order comes in, I'm constrained enough by my glasses. Anyway, it was about time I did a look with specs, to show some of the ways in which I tweak my makeup:

  • stronger defined eye shape, achieved with shadows (as here) or graphic liner
  • defined, slightly thickened brows
  • curled lashes and either no mascara or a single swipe of subtle defining (absolutely not lengthening) mascara, to prevent my lashes from being smushed up against my lenses whenever I blink (this is Armani ETK waterproof)
  • lined waterline -- either white (as here) or a dark/black shade
  • a bright blush (no neutrals with glasses) and lower placement on the apples
  • skip highlighter on edge of cheekbones / temples, keeping it strictly to the centre of the face
  • I can also skip undereye concealer but usually don't out of habit
Yeah, blah blah shutup Kate -- as you can see it's just minor tweaks for my own satisfaction as usual, and I could/would definitely wear this without glasses too...
Purple all over lid and lower lashline, rose-brown to blend edges, gold glitter patted over inner corner and blended up. 

But hopefully they will make more sense in the context of my frames and where they sit on (and seriously distort, because I am bliiiiind) my face.
Blush is the Shu red pan, lips Korres Cherry Oil Gloss in 25 Natural Purple (which as you can see, aint remotely).


In both looks I'm wearing a mix of Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory mixed with Suki CC Cream 02 Whitening and RBR Sea of Clouds highlighter as base. Burberry Sheer Touch 01 under eyes, Browlash EX Natural Brown brow pencil.

New YSL Glossy Stain paper swatches and comparisons

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Since I first tried these last December, the YSL Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres Glossy Stains have become one of my favourite lip formulas, genuinely innovative lacquers which I never have to touch up, and whose 90%-proof-rose-petal-booze scent I find surprisingly addictive....

Six new (permanent) shades have just been released, and they represent subtle nuance/undertone variations [as the whole 'fuchsia + random art movement' thing suggests] rather than genuinely expanding the twenty-strong shade range into brave new worlds. This isn't really bad news, as I'm sure you all know by now it can prove surprisingly tricky to find exactly the right tone of rose, plum or cerise in such a pigmented formula, which can sometimes change colours as it sets on the lips; these new variations round things out nicely.

* starred shades contain shimmer

21 Orange Fusion
22 Prune Minimale*
23 Fuchsia Cubiste*
24 Fuchsia Intemporel
25 Fuchsia Neo-Classic (see my look here)
26 Violine Surrealiste



(Following notes I made from swatching on skin -- apologies if some of these nuances don't come across in the paper swatches.)
21 is lighter and less red than 8; less pink than 6 -- the most orange orange in the line so far.
22 is browner than 1 but less brown/more plum than 3. Has shimmer.
23 is more red and less brown than 4; deeper and more berried than 5. Has shimmer.
24 is rosier than 25, which is a clearer reddened pink. 24 is also more purple than 11 and more pink than 10.
25 is deeper and less pink than 13; lighter and cooler than 14; more reddened than 15. It's a reddened pink to 11's pinky red.
26 is slightly deeper and redder than 16.


I think those with a substantial existing wardrobe of glossy stains would probably be able to mix their current shades to get most if not all of these new ones. Based on my dabblings,
1 + 4 = 22
4 + 5 = 23
10 + 13 = 24
11 + 15 = 25
10 + 16 = 26

E.g. Here are 11 and 15 on my hand -- can you see them adding up to 25?

Whereas 24, with its more muted, rosier depths, is a shade I can't achieve from my GS palette [1, 7, 9, 11, 15], and that's the one I'll be keeping.


Do you have any glossy sums of your own? :) Any of the new shades tempting you?

YSL Glossy Stains retail for £22.50 each in the UK.

Ellis Faas Paper Swatches: Eyes

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Swatches of the lips and cheeks here, made an embarrassingly long time ago. Since then the Ellis Faas site has become even more awesome-fied with skin swatches and what-not, although I know many of you still find paper swatches the most helpful. So here we go :)

All pictures taken in natural light, no flash.

All the Ellis Faas Eye colours now come with a redesigned, improved click-pen brush applicator (Milky Eyes no longer include the showerhead sponge of doom), which seems to dispense product more reliably with every click, but which still retains a tendency to splay if you're not careful....


Creamy Eyes (£23) are opaque, semi-matte, and apocalypse-proof cream shadows which 'set' very quickly on the skin -- I find them easiest to wear as smudgy liners. The original lineup of 10x shades was very 'human colours' heavy on the sludge, but this autumn a further range of more colourful shades (11x) were added, which retained all the strengths of the original formula.
E103: a slightly warm, sooty black
E104: a neutral-warm ash yelow brown
E105: a warmer chestnut yellow brown
E106: a lighter neutral brown with peachy pink notes
E107: a mid-toned warm peachy chestnut
E108: light warm apricot-beige
E109: light warm ivory-beige

E113: inky blue-black with a tinge of teal
E114: rich burgundy
E115: mid-tone greyed lavender
E116: lighter, warmer rose taupe
E117: light-but-not-pastel greyed mint
E118: cloudy seafoam slate
E119: mid-tone ochre


Milky Eyes (£23) are slightly less pigmented than Creamy (but still medium and buildable), more blendable and feature relatively brighter colours in a lighter satin-with-microshimmer finish. Like the Creamy Eyes, these set to a dry, very long-lasting finish but are easier to work with -- Milky Eyes are the most versatile formula for me, working as liner, all-over shades, and accents.

E203: dark blurple with navy shimmer
E304: deep jade with tonal shimmer
E205: midtone khaki-brown
E206: midtone warm rusty brown
E207: burnt terracotta
E208: warm coral pink
E209: neutral peachy beige


Eye Lights (£23) are intensely gleaming, metallic liquids which set to a siliconey 'film' rather than the soft powdery finishes of the Creamy and Milky Eyes. If you have dry lids like me, you may also experience flaking and minor fallout from this formula throughout the day -- I have similar issues with the popular sparkle liquid liners from MUFE, Stila etc. These work best used sparingly as a glitter 'topcoat' for me, rather than all over the lid.


E301: sparkly metallic white gold
E302: metallic chartreuse with lighter lime reflect
E303: foiled metallic copper with softer gold reflect
E304: foiled metallic burgundy-plum duochrome
E305: foiled metallic blood-teal duochrome

Autonal

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NB I've updated the new Glossy Stain post with skin swatches of 24 and 25.

Anyway, the rutrollson. I am officially cutting myself off from neutral eyes and roseberry lips today, and hope to share some actually colourful looks in the coming week (mostly Fyrinnae, thanks to a suggestion from the lovely laitae). But if you'll bear with me, here are the last scrapings from this barrel, which do kind of chart a seasonal shift from how I like to play off the golden light of late summer/early autumn to the colder, crisper winter light filtering through now.
Also photographic evidence of how much I love my RBR matte eyeshadows.


August/September
FACE: Burberry  concealer 01, Shu Uemura Nobara 584, RBR liquid bronzer, Shiseido High Beam White. RBR Florita blush.
EYE: Softly contoured with RBR Bashful Flamingo and Chestnut-Napped Apalis, and Unforgettable Oriole to highlight inner lower lashline. Addiction Lady of the Lake pencil to line. Curled lashes, no mascara.
LIP: Guerlain Rouge Automatique Samsara, a juicy ripened fig.
HAIR: Blythe Freshlight Juicy Apricot.



September/October
Actually I can date this to the 27th September i.e. the day after I saw Lisa Eldridge's Wide-Eyed 60s video, and threw together a very subtle uncostumey and falsies-less version for work. Even kept so understated I think the basic architecture of this look did really make me look a little more dollyishly wide-eyed, if not noticeably more leggy or supercool.
EYES: RBR Sweet Dust Seriema in socket and Grey Go-Away Lourie to line, with Blackpepper Jay to darken lash roots. A long-discontinued Shu Uemura IR Pink Rainbow 900P single (white with opalescent pink flash) over the lid. Fasio Ultra Curl Lock Volume mascara.

FACE: Vapour Organic Beauty Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 90, Burberry concealer 01, Kjaer Weiss Lovely cream blush (which camera subsequently ate).
LIPS: Guerlain Rouge Automatique Liu.
HAIR: very uneven job thanks to Schwarzkopf Perfect (ha!) Mousse 388 Red Velvet. STRONGLY DO NOT RECOMMEND! Also somewhat perplexed as Schwarzkopf also manufacture the faultless Blythe Freshlight bubble dyes....


October/November
EYES: Chanel Notorious on its own. Yes it is just that shimmery on me, yes it does catch the light differently, looking more brown or more grey depending on the contours of my eye, no I have still not succumbed to its charms [have now returned it to the kind friend who let me play]. RBR automatic eye pencil Salome, GOSH white eye kohl, Armani ETK Waterproof mascara.

FACE: Vapour Organic Beauty Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 90, Illusionist Concealer 000, Aura Stain 209 Impulse.
LIPS: YSL Glossy Stain 24 Fuchsia Intemporel.
HAIR: Kao Prettia Antique Rose.
y so blurry. sorry.
So makeup-rut-induced boredom, still reeling from the Schwarzkopf dyesaster and realising it had been a year since my last haircut... I quite literally stumbled onto a cheapy walk-in appointment at Headmasters while running a mild fever. But really we're going to blame the trinity of iniquity consisting of a certain pixie of my acquaintance, Ginnifer Goodwin and xiao. Mmmkay?

PS recommendations for styling ideas and products very welcome i.e. sorely needed! Also, I am blogally obligated to buy a wardobe of wigs now, yes?

PPS the roseberry nail polish that's been rarely off my nails since a pal surprised me with it: ZoyaPaloma. Sandwiched with Barry M 349 Rose Quartz, 351 Yellow Topaz, 352 Pink Sapphire and 354 Amethyst, and Models OwnDancing Queen.




Fyrinnae Week Part 1

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So I'm on Fyrinnae Week as part of a pledge to ditch the neutral-eye-rosy-lip rut I've been mouldering in lately. I know MiraSundari is also concocting deliciousoutrageous things for her Kick The Rut week; will you join us in putting aside those tired old standbys for a whole seven days? :D

Some disclaimers before we start: most of my Fyrinnae shades are pressed and Idon't need or use a base with these unless otherwise specified. All my swatches are made by patting on with a fingertip over bare, moisturised skin. There are many excellent  Fyrinnae swatches around, so if you want to see them in their loose natural state or packed over Pixie Epoxy, please hop over to Makeup Me Happy and then google is your oyster. Or something.

All pictures taken in natural light unless otherwise specified.


SUNDAY
Aye Captain (loose), OMGWTF, Bitey Tyrannosaur (loose),
Velvet Vampire, Alchemist's Curse,Shinigami

EYE A frame of Alchemist's Curse and Shinigami with a mix of acid green from Aye Captain, OMGWTF and Bitey Tyrannosaur in the centre of the lid. Alchemist's Curse and Velvet Vampire to define socket, blended out with Aye Captain. Velvet Vampire to line lower lashline.
with flash

LIP and CHEEK Illamasqua Rude cream blush.
BASE Vapour Organic Atmosphere Luminous stick 90 mixed with Suki CC Cream 02 lavender. Vapour Illusionist concealer 000 under eyes.



MONDAY
Nijiro (loose), Dressed to Kill, Gilded Wings, Sequinned Master

EYE Sequinned Master on mobile lid, with Nijiro patted over it, concentrating on the inner corner. Gilded Wings in outer socket, faded inwards, top edge blended with Sequinned Master on its own. Dressed to Kill as liner, Nijiro in centre of lower lashline.
flash -- this picks up the difference between SM + Nijiro and SM on its own 

LIP Guerlain Rouge G Girly.
CHEEK Shu Uemura Sakura (discontinued).
BASE KATE Powderless Liquid BR-C foundation with Burberry concealer 01 under eyes.

Autumn/Winter 2012 Wardrobe: Knits

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Disclaimers: photographing complex yarns is tricky. At least I captured some cool colourshifting effects?
If you want to read up on the yarn I used / modifications I made, all the geeky knitty gritty in fact, my ravelry username is daintypirate. Stop looking at me like that, he's a beloved camp undead character from the children's book I was reading to niecelets when I signed up.


COMPLETED

Shawlette from a glorious skein of vairegated merino, a perfectly judged gift from the classiest of dames [she's going to slap me for that....] which I'm loving -- so much easier to whip on or off than a scarf. Who knew? Much nicer-looking too -- I've never gotten the hang of artfully draping a scarf so that it doesn't resemble/function as a garotte.


Beret (another Rose Red) in angelic unbrushed angora/wool, which has really come into its own since I got my hair chopped off. Seriously, pixification = no more hat hair ever, just chic dishevelment.


Cowl in one of my favourite yarns ever, Rowan Lima (a complex airy-soft heathered braid) in TAUPE. I wear this most often as a vest right now, belted at the waist -- when it gets colder will double it up at the neck for extra smoosh.


Two-Tone Sweater is the most virtuous project (made from navy merino recycled from an old ribbed cardigan) and least successful. This is actually the second rendition, and I'm still not entirely happy with the proportions or details (especially the collar edging, ack! so messy D:) Your sartorial insights would be v. welcome -- mainly styling tips rather than tweaking ones, as this yarn is clearly cursed will disintegrate if I unpick it again.
skirt: Jill Stuart [previously]


Chunky Sweater is an out-of-my-comfort-zone project in super bulky yarn, impulse-bought during the 50% off summer sales, using needles thicker than my index finger :O
An illustration: the needles for the chunky sweater vs. the two-tone sweater vs. the vintage lace sweater I made last season.

And the yarn:

....In conclusion, I should've ventured into Brobdingnagian territory earlier, because this yarn is a dream of a colour-shifting, surprisingly soft, lofty and light...er...delight, which transformed into a so-very-on-trend-sweetiedarling pullover after a mere week.
shirt: COS | skirt: T by Alexander Wang (shown here) | tights: Falke Pure Matte 100 Anthracite 



JUST FINISHED / JURY'S OUT
Cropped, open, textured cardigan in a luscious rose red. :D Sadly the open fronts hang at slightly odd angles, mostly likely due to the changes (numerous, not very well thought out) I made. Practicality may yet win out as I do need a topper for skimpy party dresses, but I am itching to take this apart right now :P
top: COS (shown here) | skirt: MILK (a Japanese brand) | tights: Falke Pure Matte 100 Black 


CURRENTLY
A cabled headband from leftovers from the trimming of the two-toned pullover:




PLANNED
MOAR pullovers! I've been in a cardigan phase for the last couple of years but am now all about the blocky, slightly shortened schoolgirl/boyish pullover now. Clean lines, straight shapes and all that prep.
swatching my new unwittingly Christmassy Brooklyn Tweed Shelter yarns, courtesy of a sexy American 

Fyrinnae Week: Midweek Tonal

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Typically for me, by midweek Shiny New Creative Project has devolved into a mini (or maybe a meta) rut of its own. My brain it is lazy, my bed it is comfy.

Disclaimers from Part 1 apply. Unless otherwise specified, all pictures are taken in natural light (which has been variable but mostly terrible this week), and no base was used unless otherwise specified.
No swatches today -- I'm going to do a big Fyrinnae swatchathon post soon :)


TUESDAY
EYE Tarnished cool gold gradient with (from lightest inner corner to darkest outer): Shinrikou, Sacred, Griffonrider and Newcastle. Outer 2/3 of lashline darkened with Sake & Sashimi.
Pixi Black Tulip pencil on waterline.


CHEEK Sleek Rose Gold
BASE Vapour Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 90 and Illusionist Concealer 000 under eyes

This was work-from-home day so I got to try out a scary new lipstick :D
LIP 1 Rimmel Kate Moss 04 -- I think I needed to go warmer on the eyes to counterbalance this; MUA consensus was that I needed a warmer (and less patchy) lip to go with the eyes. What say you? Option C: Other always welcome. 

LIP 2 Kanebo Media Lip Liner WN-1 (breaking my no-roseberry pledge and craning idiotically for last of the light, sorry)



WEDNESDAY
EYEmess mélange of greens: Eternal Innocence and Boytoy, with blackened sparkle Dokkalfar to line, iridescent sheer Electric Stardust to highlight, and green-flashing-taupe Atomic Afterglow to blend edges. 

LIP Shiseido Lip Lacquer Disco
CHEEK Shiseido Peony (eyeshadow single)
BASE KATE Powderless Liquid BR-C set with Guerlain Meteorites Loose Mythic. Burberry Concealer 01 undereyes.




THURSDAY
EYE As well as killer greens, Fyrinnae make spectacular purples: Herbivore in the middle of the lid, blended out at either corner with Meerkat. Cuddlefish to darken outer v and airy pastel When I Grow Up lightly buffed into the socket. A touch of Freya to darken lashline.
with flash -- horrible light today

LIP mix of YSL Glossy Stains 7 and 15 for a warm coral pink
CHEEK Rouge Bunny Rouge Gracilis
BASE Shu Uemura Pink/Purple UV Underbase Mousse, Vapour Illusionist Concealer 000 under eyes. RBR Sea of Tranquility highlighter.




FRIDAY
EYE As my whining about the crappy lighting/weather may indicate, I am so very over this whole autumn/winter thing now. Summery turquoise/teal eye with Anemone on the lid, Pteradon winged outwards from outer v and Jaguar to line. Bastet as a golden highlight on the inner corner.

LIP Illamasqua Mistress Intense Gloss over YSL Glossy Stain 15.
CHEEK Illamasqua Katie
BASE Shu Uemura Pink/Purple UV Underbase Mousse, Burberry concealer 01 under eyes. Tiny bit of RBR liquid bronzer on high points.

Vapour Organic Beauty Swatches, Review and Look

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Vapour Organic Beauty is a green brand (cruelty-free, certified organic ingredients, minimal recycled and recyclable packaging) which has been garnering raves for the past few years, mostly for base makeup. What made me sit up and take interest quite recently was the introduction of new, extra-pale shades of foundation and concealer to the lineup, as well as a more pigmented lip/cheek cream formula (Aura Stain) -- their earlier ranges seemed a bit too tasteful for me ;D

My nascent stash: Aura Multi-Use Blush Stain in 209 Impulse, Illusionist Concealer in 000 and Atmosphere Luminous Foundation in 090. In the UK, Content stocks a smaller selection of Vapour products, at the usual high post-import British prices (£20 for the concealer vs. $22). I acquired my products from Spiritbeautylounge via American friends. Mentioning this now to establish that I'm judging these products based on their more reasonable US prices.

Nitpicky aesthetes might be annoyed by the difference in packaging between these different products -- it's not just a colour/looks thing either, the stick foundation tube (right) is flimsy plastic while the concealer (middle) is much heftier and sleeker, with the stain (left) somewhere in between. Picky noses should be aware: these are unscented, which is not the same as scent-free; they have a definite, lingering nutty/waxy scent, from the ingredients used.


On to the products!

ATMOSPHERE LUMINOUS FOUNDATION
A solid, almost balm-like cream in stick form, which offers medium coverage but can be sheered out to light. Less emollient and not quite as easily spreadable than RMS Beauty 'Un' Cover-Up, it is however a very comfortable formula on my dry skin, and I think its more cosmetically elegant lustrous skinlike finish would appeal to a wider range of skintypes than RMS's unctuous...unguent (which even I would reserve for deep winter).
Having tried all my brushes and sponges, I find the heat from fingers really does help to meld this formula into my skin; as a final step, a damp Beautyblender sponge patted all over the face will take off any excess, sheer out the coverage further and blend this into the persnickity invisible-to-me standards to which I hold all bases.

Before&After
Currently main skin concerns are just dullness and unevenness -- both sallow and red tones courtesy of ravages of central heating / bouts of cold. There's a hint of a pimple between my eyebrows which I was carefully cultivating last week, thus delaying this review... but it ended up going away on its own :/ Sorry about that. 
Face bare of makeup but with usual layers of skincare -- any 'glow' you see in this picture would fade within 30 minutes without help from makeup.

One layer of Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 090 smoothed out with fingers evens out my skin and adds enough of a glow that highlighter becomes optional.

After damp Beautyblender bouncing and 5 minutes to 'set', the initial glow settles into a softly lustrous, step-up-from-satin finish, which stays put all day on me without the need for setting, neither fading back into matte dullness nor transferring.

In conclusion: a comfortable, clean, no-frills (or water!) formula which hasn't dried or irritated my skin over a month's use despite the inclusion of silica in the ingredients list. It's the perfect level of coverage to even the skin out without making me look unreasonably polished, which is exactly what I want from a base most days. Alone, this doesn't work concealing magic on skin texture or pores the way excellent Japanese formulations do (can't hold a candle to Shu Uemura's Nobara stick*, for example), but it neither emphasises nor exacerbates any fine lines or flakes, and has become my go-to, everyday foundation, requiring neither priming nor setting.

*too dark and too dry for me for most of the year -- but if I had the option I would wear it always.


ILLUSIONIST CONCEALER
This feels like a much more expensive product than the Atmosphere Luminous Foundation (and it is, at 3.3ml for $22 vs 9.63g for $34), but was less successful for me. While feeling more creamily, smoothly blendable than the foundation, and running paler too, it is sheer -- too sheer for blemishes and the wrong tone for my undereye circles.

Before: the pimple by my eyebrow I was cultivating for this review would not cooperate, but anyway... *tiny violins* wearing the Vapour foundation only [see what I mean about no magic on pores? :(] and have waywardly curled lashes. 

After two very heavy layers of concealer -- seriously, this stick would last a month if used this profligately.

Again, a very comfortable texture which doesn't really exacerbate textural issues such as chicken-skin bumps under eyes or dryness at the outer corner. It does however bring out a little extra flake around my healing spot (it is tiny and you may need to click to enlarge :P) without really mitigating the redness. As an undereye concealer, it is too pale -- I prefer to go a shade darker and pinker for better correction and to mimic natural dimension -- and too sheer even to cope with my circles on a good day.

In conclusion: nice texture but far too sheer.


COMPARISON SWATCHES: Foundation and Concealer
Illamasqua Skin Base 02
Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 584
Vapour Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 090
Vapour Illusionist Concealer 000
Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX-01
RMS Beauty 'Un' Cover-Up 11


Graftobian HD Glamour Creme Lady Fair
Shu Uemura Nobara stick 584
Vapour Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 090
Becca Compact Concealer Meringue (both sides)
Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX-02
Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX-01
Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory


Apologies for the random, slightly repetitive nature of these -- they were made upon makeupalleyer requests. It shows that these Vapour shades are genuinely pale, landing towards the light end of my personal base wardrobe (the darkest of which, Laura Mercier Soft Ivory, is still a step paler than MAC NC15).


AURA MULTI-USE BLUSH STAIN
An intensely pigmented, blendable, glowy formula (a v. generous 10g for $25) in a perfectly pitched true, bright red. I like my red blush clownish, especially in winter, but it can most definitely be sheered out for a barely-there healthy glow -- its unusual brightness coupled with a lack of pink tones makes Impulse a flattering choice for those of us who naturally blush a fevered cool red, especially in cold air.
Again, despite containing silica, this stain doesn't dry my cheeks out, perhaps because the Vapour base of waxes and oils act as enough of a buffer. Having tested it on some obliging oily-skinned friends, I can report that it lasted without fading all day on them, either. While marketed as multi-use, the texture and oily/nutty/waxy scent made it a bit unpleasant for me to wear on lips.

Swatches are applied with fingers, and semi-blended (not at full opacity, but nor sheered out either); picture in natural sunlight! Remember that?


Rouge Bunny Rouge Florita -- the only powder here, and closest to but more muted than Impulse
Jouer Dahlia tint
Besame Crimson Cream Rouge
Vapour Aura Stain Impulse
RMS Beauty lip2cheek Modest
Addiction Revenge Cheek Stick
(click through for more red blush swatches)

In conclusion: made of win. I'm contemplating the other three shades.


VaporousLook, ho ho
Inspired by:

How could I resist the impulse to show off these products with this faded out placement?
BASE Atmosphere Luminous Foundation 090, Illusionist Concealer 000. Shu Uemura Seal Brown brow pencil.
BLUSH Aura Stain Impulse
LIP Aura Stain Impulse blended out with Illusionist Concealer 000


EYE Shu Uemura M White 907, Fyrinnae Candy Coated as main colour with Purgatory to darken lashline. GOSH white kohl and Max Factor False Lash Effect 24 Hour mascara.
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